Binding on old Washburn

[George Roberts]

This is a small Washburn that is stamped "1897 STYLE      NEW MODEL"  Serial number 168075 is hand written on the label, and also stamped into the end of the peghead.  The number 145 is also stamped into the end of the peghead, just above the S.N.

The bridge is marked "DURKEE PATENT BRIDGE"

The ivoroid binding has shrunk, and pulled away from the edge of the end of the fingerboard.  I looks as though hide glue was used originally.   Would you stick (so to speak) with the hot hide glue, or consider Duco, or?

George

[George Roberts]

More pictures

[Mike Kolb]

Just my 2 cents...I think hot hide glue or titebond would do well, on the theory that there's a zillion little miniature slivers of wood left on the binding and they should present 'wood-to-wood' glue surfaces.  

If the binding (bond-side) has been cleaned or otherwise devoid of the old wood, then it probably should be treated as a new installation and Weld-on would be better. 

[Kerry Krishna]

What an amazingly gorgeous axe. It's been years since I have seen a guitar in as good shape as that. Congrats!

[David Houchens]

Hide glue

[George Roberts]

Thanks for the input, everyone. 

I have always used Duco cement for ivoroid binding in new builds, but I wasn't sure how it would react with the very old ivoroid binding.  I guess it makes sense to stay with the hot hide glue since that's what seems to have been used originally.

This guitar is cross braced, which is a first for me with Washburn / Lyon &Healey.

George

[Jim Bancroft]

Either hot hide glue or Titebond would be the glue to use, no Duco cement on an old instrument, it will damage the finish.

 

Jim