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...that jig you use to chisel the initial heel cut during a neck reset? I'm doing lots of NR's these days and am always looking for ways to increase speed and accuracy. I understand the concept of the jig but can't envision how to clamp the neck and set the jig to establish accurately the zero point (under the fingerboard end) where the wedge terminates.

I offer a modest shop tip in exchange (emphasis on modest, though I CAN be a somewhat clever at times, probably not often enough).

If I'm having to repeatedly string and unstring a guitar for a particular repair, I coil two adjacent strings together rather than all six. 2 are easy to separate, 3 or 6 multiply the hassle factor...

Told you it was modest.

Thanks in advance!

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I've made all sorts of jigs and half of them just sit, waiting to be cannibalized into parts for something else. Scout the flea markets for a Swan, Greenlee, Buck, or similar chisel. I have a Swan that's 1-3/4" wide that I use for lots of stuff. The steel in them is wonderful---that's as technical as I can get. 

You can determine the part of the heel that needs the most removal, scribe from that low point to the highest point about 1/4 below the fingerboard.  I then use a wide chisel to pare  to the high point 1/4" before the fingerboard. I rest a corner of the chisel on the low spot, and carefully pivot the cutting edge onto the work, staying above the scribe line. it gives a nice controllable shear cut. Frank mentions 3/4" chisels in his work.

After spending many years fitting parts this way, it's second nature. A power tool that eats too much on a pass is a done deal. Paring with a razor sharp chisel will be quicker than you think, yet gives you time to "put the brakes on".

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