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Hello from beautiful Bloomington, Indiana!

By way of a small introduction, my name is David Baas, I have been repairing guitars professionally since the mid-80s and am the owner of Roadworthy Guitars.

Like many here, I am eternally grateful to Frank Ford for all of his work, his willingness to share his knowledge, and everyone's knowledge in this forum.  Thank you, Frank and many of you here.  You've helped me a great deal over the past few years. 

My question:  Is there a way to stop water-thin CA from running/staining/messing up the inside of a guitar?

I have a Martin with a center seam top crack that is so tight I can't get it to take any glue via the usual mean of hydrostatic pressure digitally applied (aka with fingers).

In addition to the typical concerns regarding a valuable instrument, this top has been signed on the underside by all the people involved in its construction, so messing it up with glue would be an even greater sin.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks in advance,

Dave

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I'd be concerned that the CA would discolor the top.  Have you tried some thinned down hide glue?

Hi David... welcome aboard.  Just a couple of thoughts on the problem... is there a way you can jack-up the top a bit from the interior to temporarily stretch the crack wider?  

If that's not feasible, maybe a thin throw-away syringe could help out. You'd be left with small pinholes to fill and "make pretty", but it'd probably get some glue sparingly in there.

There's always the more severe route of widening the crack and splinting, but it sounds like it's closed nicely and it'd be great to leave it that way and work-around it. In any event, please share the outcome and your solution?

Hope to hear more from you & beautiful Bloomington, Indiana.... it looks like summer may have arrived a little early there! 

Hi David.

What model is this?  Not very many bear the signatures of the builders.  If it's a high dollar special edition and he's the original owner, I bet that Martin would fix it for free. Having Martin do the work will not affect it's value. Unless, of course, you're a Martin warranty provider.

Now onto you question:  I'm with Mike that the best way to get the glue to the sides of the crack is by using a jack.  I'll be using that approach this afternoon on an Alvarez with the exact same problem.  I use white glue for these types of cracks.  I would shy away from CA on a repair like this.  And I'm with Glenn that there's too much of a probability that it'll wick into the top and discolor it.

Best of luck (:

The jack is a good idea in combination with a shop vac in the soundhole. You regulate the amount of suction by cupping your hands around the hose and over the soundhole. I use LMI's instrument glue as it dries hard and clear, and I've thinned it up to around 20% with good results. The working time is longer so you can really manipulate the glue, the top and the vacuum. 

Good Luck!!!!

I would go for thinned hide glue, and carefully wipe the inside of the crack with an almost dry rag, very carefully.

Thank you for the consultation.  I used the jack and LMI glue and it took some glue.  Still couldn't get any sqeeze through to the inside, but the crack is sealed and solid now.

 

Dave

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