I'm very new and starting my first build, but this will be the 3rd time finishing (or refinishing) an instrument. I'm in the process of planning out my build and have one question:
How do you pore-fill/level-sand with the bridge tape-mask on the top?
I have followed this exact process to great success with my first two pore-fills using Z-Poxy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gc5hN3gTONM
I plan to use z-poxy again to fill the pores in the solid mahogany I'll be using. I want to mask off the bridge footprint to make it easier to apply the finish evenly, but I just have this feeling that it will rip right off when I level sand the z-poxy.
Do I pore-fill over the bridge area, sand to bare wood, then mask the bridge area?
Do I mask the bridge area and just be careful to sand around the tape-mask?
Thanks so much!
I have only finished one mahogany top(and a couple of other hardwood tops) but I just pore filled, sanded and finished and polished the whole suface.
Then I positioned and pinned the bridge, scribed the outline and scraped the footprint down to wood for gluing,
Basically the same as I do for a spruce top, but with pore fill added to the process.
If you really want to mask, and many prefer it, I'd do it after pore filling and sanding
Before removing the masking tape, cut around the edge of the tape with a sharp exacto knife, or similar sharp knife.
Yes it's Ok IMHO
"..then apply truoil."
Are you going to finish the top in tru oil? It's your build, but if you do that, you'll likely have some serious humidity related issues and possible stability issues with the instrument.
Also, oil and glues don't play well together.
My comments are only cautionary and food for consideration.
Best of luck with your build & have fun with it :)
I finished my first couple of instruments in tru oil
No humidity issues or stability issues
It is more like a varnish than an oil and does not penetrate deeply
Yes you need to get to bare wood before gluing
Thanks Joe :)
Your answer makes perfect sense to me. I withdraw my caution.
I'm only familiar with it for it's original purpose after a brief and aborted foray into gunsmithing years ago. I am such a mechanical geek. I agree that it builds to a very beautiful & durable sheen. And, it's soooooo easy to use and easy to control the final results.
We all learn and get educated by each other and you just contributed invaluably to my databank.
Have fun with your build and thanks again for the info. Sounds like it's gonna be a good time for ya :)
Thanks so much for your reply Paul, I really appreciate it as my confidence is restored again in TruOil. :)
I've only posted a couple of times here on Frets.net, but I've read many threads and posts. I do remember your name specifically from my previous threads and other posts. Once again, I respect your knowledge and thank you very much for taking the time to provide some info to help me.
Glue will not stick well to any finish. It needs to be clean. In acoustic guitars the best masking of the bridge area I have found is with Frisket (1 mil) tape. It is used in the airbrush industry and sticks very well. Do a google search. Once I have masked off the bridge area I can paint, sand AND buff the guitar without removing the frisket tape. The, using the bridge I carefully cut the finish around the bridge and remove the Frisket tape. Now you have an exact footprint of your bridge area and, IT IS CLEAN! Ready for glue!