Pumice and Rottenstone

[Doug Collins]

I am at the final stages of my first guitar. I am just waiting for the KTM-9 brushed on water-based lacquer to cure before buffing. The trouble is, I don't have a buffing wheel. I'm wondering if an alternative would be to use pumice and rottenstone. Has anybody used this method? I know it will take a little more elbow grease, but if it will achieve the desired results, I'm willing to try.

Thanks,

Doug Collins

[Penql]

A friend recently did a brushed KTM9 finish - maybe 8 coats, I would guess the dry finish was about 1/32" thick - after curing a couple weeks he wet sanded with soapy water and wet-dry paper starting with 400 - up to 1500 - important - except on sharp edges he always backed with a flat block or flexible backing of some sort, and polished with a felt block, rottenstone and parrafin oil. This was his first finishing job. It looks very much like a lacquer finish, very nice, only very slightly less warm. He sanded through (big time) on the first try but recoating with KTM9 thinned with denatured alcohol linked and blended with no trace. To my astonishment this stuff filled pores beautifully on honduras mahogany without any filler and doesn't show any sign of shrinking into the pores after a month or so.

So yeah, I think it'll work nicely.

[Doug Collins]

Thanks Pengl, that's what I was hoping to hear. I too am very impressed with the results so far. I used Z-proxy as a filler on the rosewood sides and back, but not on the spruce top. Originally I did put the epoxy of the top too, but I didn't like what it did to the spruce, so I sanded it off. I wanted a a very white, high contrast look and it just discoloured it too much. I might have accepted a bit of warming, but the way it filled it just made it look dirty.

I was wondering if the pumice might be too coarse. Sounds like your friend skipped it. Maybe I will too.

Thanks for your help,

Doug Collins

[Jim Bancroft]

Not a problem. I've never used a buffing wheel, and have built a number of banjo necks, a uke, and numerous finish repairs.
The finishes I've worked with are shellac and lacquer.
Once you have the proper thickness finish, just use wet and dry sandpaper, then various grits of polish compound applied with a cotton cloth, and water lubricant(mineral spirits with shellac). Your finish will look as good as if buffed on a wheel.
It take some hand effort, but is not that difficult.

Jim

[Jeffrey L. Suits]

Micromesh.

[Buddy Ellis]

I'd highly recommend the micromesh routine. Get the 2400 4000 6000 and 8000 grits and then go with the #2 step of the meguires 3 part 'crystal polish' system (it's the same product as the #10 or whatever it is plastic polish) with a rag and a bit of elbow grease - or try one of these type polishing pads on your sander:
This or This.

[Jeffrey L. Suits]

Also--Buflex, available at LMI. Great stuff.

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Abrasive...

Hoe does one make the long url into a one word link, like the poster above?

[Buddy Ellis]

In the post editor, there is a 'link' tool that looks sorta like three links of chain (or a sideways 8)

[Rev George]

I use strictly french polish on my instruments. After the usual shellac/oil/pumice to the number of coats I want, I finish up with pumice and oil and then rottenstone and oil. It takes some time but I enjoy doing it and since I'm not a high volume shop I have plenty of time for it. It makes for a beautiful finish that all my customers rave about. I'm not patting myself on the back here or bragging. I obviously didn't invent the technique but it sure makes for a deep, smooth lustre. It took some time to learn and I screwed up quite a few pieces of scrap before I learned, but it's been well worth it.
The most important thing I learned is to make 3 wool pads with cotton covers (cloth diapers work great) one for the french polish, one for the pumice/oil and one for the rottenstone/oil. By the way I use mineral oil. I've used baby oil before and it sure makes the shop smell nice.
I use all organic materials for my instruments and finishes and no power tools except a band saw for roughing out wood parts. It's not from any tree-hugger mentality, it's strictly a shameless sales ploy. There is a certain demographic that likes the idea of 'hand made' instruments (aren't they all hand made? oops, don't want to open that can of worms again..) and I can charge more for em! Bwaah-ha-ha-ha

Rev George

[Russell Vance]

Micromesh - pure genius this stuff (I have a full buff system but still use Micromesh for fidly bits - but it also does a full instrument without drama and burn throughs) - use it wet or dry, lasts forever, doesn't load up. Also great for doing your friends fingernails, car touch-ups, persplex winshields on lighties and polishing your tortise's shell (just kidding about the tortise). Rusty.

[Doug Collins]

Thank you everyone who replied to this thread. I sanded to 2500 grit and used rottenstone. It looks beautiful!

Really appreciate the advice.

Doug Collins