FRETS.NET

David Farmer
  • Male
  • Durango, CO
  • United States
Share on Facebook MySpace

David Farmer's Friends

  • Alex Glasser
  • Ian Davlin
  • Lee Gendvilas
  • Mark A. Kane
  • Mike Kolb

David Farmer's Discussions

Removing fender epoxied in neck
12 Replies

Any experience/ ideas welcome. Drill and rout is the only plan I've come up with.Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Henning Hojen Oct 30, 2017.

Washburn saddle transducer glued in?
5 Replies

Anyone come across this? Called Washburn but, "tech guy is on vacation". (sounds nice)…Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Claus Holm Jensen Jul 12, 2017.

Plastic bag mask for lacquer overspray?
7 Replies

I saw a photo of someone doing it and wondered if others are. Sure would be a time saver when just doing a  neck touchup. Masking a body with paper often feels like the longest part of a repair.At…Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Russell Vance Jul 2, 2017.

bridge pin drilling quickie
8 Replies

Usually I use a long drill bit to clear clamps that are holding a backing piece.Today I needed a different smaller size hole so I cross drilled the bottom stud on my bridge clamps for a 3/32" Hex…Continue

Started this discussion. Last reply by Christopher Parker Jan 11, 2017.

 

David Farmer's Page

Comment Wall (6 comments)

At 9:40pm on December 7, 2013, Ian Davlin said…

How is the repair going of the chewed up top? Im always interested to hear what people come up with for that one. 

At 4:50pm on November 20, 2014, Mike Kolb said…

Hi David, thanks for the 'friend-add'!  Yes, I've used that steam rig once and it seems to work alright, maybe a B- for a grade.

I was hoping it'd totally evaporate the escaping steam (and it seems to do some of that) but it also blows a lot of it around on the guitar surface, which makes for a lot of quick mopping-up with a rag while it's working.

It became necessary to add some additional air-venting on the main manifold, simply because the vacuum-cleaner (in reverse) was throwing out too much air pressure... as indicated by the vacuum motor sounding really "backed-up" and more high-pitched than when it's running with a normal load, if that makes any sense?   Perhaps using larger hose (1/2" instead of the 1/4" I'm using now) would alleviate that, but I don't think so.

At any rate, "I've got what I've got" now, and am looking-forward to suing it again to see what sort of fine-tuning can be done.

Keep me up-to-date on yours, OK? I'd be curious what sort of changes you'll make and the ensuing results.   Have a ball.... /// Mike

At 1:25pm on January 9, 2015, Alex Glasser said…
Hey Dave,
No problem.  I just called Martin.  They agreed that the material will
definitely bubble if you overheat it.  So if you have to do a bridge
reglue (which is how I learned it bubbles, thinking it was ebony) just use
a heat lamp but keep it 6-12 inches away and SLOWLY heat the bridge, then
it won't get super hot and bubble, but it will get hot enough to soften
the glue and you can get it off ok.  You can reglue with hide glue the
same as normal.
When the bridge bubbled, I started to sand a little and realized that the
bridge was layered.  I stopped sanding and glue duh bubble down, reshaped
it a bit, made it look nice and took some money off the repair and told my
customer what happened.  He was a stoked I was honest about it.
When I talked to Martin, they said that they think you can sand the
fingerboard.  But I would be extremely careful.  Maybe just sand and if
you hit a new layer just stop. I have refret a few guitars with the
phenolic board and I never hit a second layer, but you never know.  Just
be careful I guess and keep it in mind, but I would go for it!
Take care man, good luck,
Alex
At 6:53am on January 26, 2017, Lee Gendvilas said…

Hi David, you're up early! I think what I'd like to do is understand how to calculate the radius progression. I think I get the idea of how you make them from your recent post. I also have a brother in law that is a member of a machine shop co op here in Chandler AZ so I believe I have access to CNC, drill presses, lathes, etc... So, if I can understand how to calculate the radius and progression, I think I could "bond" with brother in law and fill in the gaps with the cauls I don't have and need. Thanks again for taking your time in helping me with this!

Lee Gendvilas

At 12:30pm on January 30, 2017, Lee Gendvilas said…

Hi David, thanks for sending the formulas! I'm still digesting the info. I've been sidetracked with a shower repair so I will get back with you when I am able to formulate coherent questions. Thank-you for taking your time to help me understand.

Lee Gendvilas

At 9:08am on February 16, 2017, Lee Gendvilas said…

Hello again David! I believe I am on the right track in making replacement cauls. The question I have at this time is related to the pic. Do you cut the arc in #1 first then #2? Or do you cut both at the same time? I'm looking at the pic you posted earlier of the template and the ball drill bit and at first view it would seem that you're cutting both at the same time.

Thanks again for your time in responding!

Lee Gendvilas

You need to be a member of FRETS.NET to add comments!

Join FRETS.NET

 
 
 

Members

© 2024   Created by Frank Ford.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service