Hoping someone who has  any make of guitar that they know for sure has a scale  length of 25.4 inches can take a measurements to with-in 32nds from center nut to center saddle. Trying to use that measurement to help get this one time chance  neck angle correct.There is no trust rod in this relic so its a one shot deal.!

It was measuring 25-1/2 inches but have a feeling its too long causing  flat notes. Thanks for any 

help on this measurement!

I know the vintage 69N-20 Martins had this scale so just wonder what the nut to saddle length of one that is still intonated actually is?

Have also learned   an 1998 SP000-16 R Martin has that same scale  length . If someone can chime in on others  with that scale length that would help maybe some other owners take and post a measurement. thanks -Rob

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Maybe it's semantics, but wouldn't you want to use the leading edge of the nut to the center (high point) of the saddle? 

I know I am old school but was always told to double nut to twelth and add 1/8 inch mid saddle for bridge slot location.-Rob

My builds use 25.4 with .15 compensation = 25.55

Thanks  Glen -My skills are limited so may I ask a question. That 25.55 inches I assume. What total length does that compute to in closest 32nds inch if you have a conversion table handy with thanks?-Rob


Right now as I measure it appears in total length the strings touch point is at 647mm so looks like all my calculations are very close would you agree Mark. From nut to center 12th appears to be 322mm.

How does that sound for a 25.4 inch scale?   Is it in the ballpark? I now the notes of the fretboard are right with a so-so Snark meter which is all I have sadly. 

What is the make and model of guitar?  Martins with the nominal 25.4" scale have an actual scale length of 25.34". And are you saying that you are setting intonation by changing the neck angle?  That is not the way it should  be done.

Thanks  Howard for that measurement. I realize that about the neck reset.This guitar is actually an mock 69N-20 Martin complete with sitka top,spanish cedar kirfing, the inner rib pattern copied  from the set mold they used in the martin factory.It even has the correct three mahogany ribs in the correct position.Problem was the neck itself was not off a martin sadly and missing a trust rod was actually doweled together. With its original factory  rossette it does indeed  look impressive .Along with its 7-3/16 long rosewood non compensated bridge.

As I mentioned  before I was told to double that nut to 12th and add 1/8th inch which my guess is a bit out Howard. When I calculated the frets I used the Stew Mac table and now I wonder how acurate they really were.

What does that .34' work out Howard in 32nds . Thanks for that in advance Howard! Right now my nut to center saddle distance sits at 25 1/2 inches with strings touching about right there.-Rob

25.34 is just under 25-11/32".  You don't really need that number if you have a fretboard that is already slotted or fretted--you can double the nut to 12th fret distance to get the scale.  The amount you should add for compensation varies with the kind of strings you are using and the action height.  Nylon strings will usually need a little less compensation than steel.  And the saddle is usually not angled on the bridge of a nylon string guitar.  Doubling the nut to 12th fret distance and adding 1/8" to the center of the saddle should put you pretty close.

Thanks  Howard for all your help with those specs.I see Willie Nelson has his own luther that keeps his 69N-20 intonated perfect or close it.If you see a close up of Triggers  bridge, he has a (not  original) bridge that actually has two fine brass screws which allows the saddle to be moved from time to time. Guess with board shrinkage it would be moved back or it would start playing sharp. You would think more vintage guitars play sharp  than flat Howard.

That movable saddle is the Baldwin pick-up that is such a part of Trigger's sound. I'm pretty certain that is the original bridge with the front "relieved/removed" to accommodate the pick-up.

HI Josh- Thanks for chiming in! Pretty sure I watched that u-tube vid on the history of Trigger where they talk about the one hundred remakes to factory specs of the original N-20s. Notice the end of the bridges . They were rounded I talked to a few owners who told me their  factory  N-20 bridges had rounded bridges and their saddle slots were non compensated. From that close up of Triggers bridge I would figure those tiny adjustments can be made to keep Trigger in perfect intonation if there is such a things. My guess is most guitars are a touch sharp or flat on at least some strings. My guess most people would  not want to admit to that.-Rob


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