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Jeesh, March has been 'Ovation Month' for me around here... and here's the latest puzzler.  Arriving into the shop this weekend was an older Ovation "Matrix", model #1132 with some  common problems... the bridge is warped and pulling-up, the nut has been cut too low and ---oh yes-- could I please redress the frets?  And that's where the fun starts.

It seems that the Ovation Matrix has a metal fretboard set into a wood (mahogany?) neck. The fretboard is cast aluminum and... by all appearances... the frets were cast right along with the fretboard when it was made. The request for a fret dress was brought on by small chips in the frets. Those chips appear to be dings in a layer of chrome plating that was applied over the top of the cast aluminum frets.

Regarding cast frets and their chrome plating... are my observations correct?  And, of course, the biggest question... now what?!  If a standard fret dress were performed, the chrome would go bye-bye and the strings would be sitting on frets of defenseless aluminum, right? 

Could a fellow grind-down the frets, mills some slots and then install standard frets in this beast? Or am I really missing something here? Did I mention I'm learning to really dislike Ovations?  This guitar, by the way, has steel strings with fan bracing... and it sounds terrific.  All help appreciated.

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I took on a similar job back in the 80s and did what you are thinking about. I ground down the frets, slotted the aluminum fretboard and epoxied in regular fret wire. It was actually pretty straight forward. It worked fine. I did it primarily to see if it could be done and wouldn't do it again because of the amount of work it took. The guitar wasn't worth it. If the guy wants to give up the money, go for it. It was a fun experiment.
I'm from the, "Ovation built it, they can fix it", school...
Amen, brother!
Hmmm, just a glutton for punishment, I guess. The idea of planing the fretboard down smooth and milling new slots is starting to grow on me. The customer and I have a good relationship and he's given me almost carte blanche to proceed as seen fit. He's not in any hurry, so the fret-replacement idea is gaining more steam by the minute.

In any event, when push came to shove, Ovation wouldn't fix anything.... they'd just want to sell him a new neck.... and, while that may be the way to go, what kind of fun is that ?!:)
ASK IF YOU CAN MAKE IT FRET LESS AND IN PLACE INLAY MARKERS REPRESENTING FRETS ?LOL RUN FOR THE HILLS
Mike,

Perhaps I don't understand what you're proposing - likely really - but it the frets are case "proud" of the fretting surface with some sorta material forming the fretting surface. And you're going to mill the fretboard flat and install steel frets? While you've got the guitar in front of you and I don't I thought that these had a radius fretboard that tapered to the heel? If not then they made different models using these techniques cuz I know I've seen one like such and the milling set up to get it "flat" (without simply trusting your filing ability) would take a good computer controlled mill or a good tracer and blank neck.

I can't wait to see what you come up with - I think I'd bolt 'er myself.

Rob
Ovation - The Antiguitarist ;)
Wow, I've never seen these in my shop yet, and I hope I won't. Good luck Mike! Brady, what kind of tool did you use for slotting in Aluminium?
I'm in a Stratabond Martin month.... it's scary how fragile these backs and sides are : when it breaks, you get a near 1 foot diameter hole.
I'm not sure what I used but aluminum cuts fairly easy with any kind of saw.
Because aluminum doesn't compress as easily as wood you will have to experiment with different sizes to find the right width cut that will easily accept the frets you are using. Traditional fret saws will be too thin. Try a small hardware store backsaw or a hacksaw for a start.
Make a new double wide neck and turn it into a spaceage lute! synthetic top too.
Rob... you've got it. The frets are absolutely proud of the fingerboard.... they were cast right along with the fingerboard and it's all one piece. To give the frets hardness, they were chrome-plated (or something-plated) on top and now that plating is starting to chip away, leaving only aluminum as a fret material.

Yes, the neck's radiused, but I believe the exiting frets can be knocked down pretty easily by hand, and any remaining nub can be erased with an aggressive aluminum oxide cloth and an appropriate radius block. The fingerboard is surfaced with only black paint, and shouldn't be difficult to refinish prior to refretting.

As far as new frets slot go, Brady, you're probably right about most saws being up to the task. I might, however put the neck (it's a bolt-on) in the mill to see how well an .025" endmill would work, then (if that's a go) epoxy the little buggers in place and be done with it.

I'll try to get some pics up in a while... To be continued.

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