Chipped End Block Repair

[Vic Deirmendjian]

Hello,

I'm new to the board and have a request for some advice on how to repair a chipped end block inside a guitar I am going to repair.  I have a few of the peices but don't have all of the chipped parts so I am wondering if anyone has any good ideas or has done a repair like this before.  There is a pickup installed right in the hole where the chipped area is so without the support from the once whole block the pickup does kind of get loose a little and is installed fairly tightly right now which is obviously not the best for the guitar.  Any input is welcomed.  Thanks in advance.

 

Vic

[Paul Verticchio]

Hi Vic.

Here's what I'd do.....

 

Remove the 1/4" jack from the end block.  Get a 1"-2.5" trim or fender washer at your local hardware store.  If you're lucky, you'll find one within in that range that has a center hole large enough to allow the threaded bushing of the jack to pass through it.  If not, drill it out on a drill press so it will accept the bushing.

 

Now, replace the stock flat washer that's directly against the end block with the new big washer.  Reinstall the 1/4" jack assembly and you're done. The washer will level the surface of the end block and will shoulder the stress of the end-pin jack as well as covering the otherwise minimal damage.  This way you won't have to tear your arm up trying to get the chips in their correct orientation.

 

All of that is contingent upon there being no other splits or cracks in the end block.

 

Best of luck on this fix,

Paul

[Vic Deirmendjian]

Thank you for your reply Paul, and an Idea I had not thought of.  I should have posted a pic with the jack removed but I think the one I posted does show enough to give you a good idea.  The block does not seem to have any cracks or splits I'm pretty sure.  I was just wondering if it might be a good idea to fill the chipped area before I install a washer on there.  And if I filled it what would be the best thing to use.

 

Thanks again,

 

Vic

[Kerry Krishna]

You have me quite puzzled here. Why are you trying/thinking about fixing this? It doesn't quite make sense...

[Pierre-Antoine Roiron]

Just to get the endpin jack tight, and a big washer is enough.

[Frank Ford]

For a permanent repair that wouldn't impede any future pickup jack modifications or installation, you could make your own "washer" out of a thin piece of hobby ply, and glue it in place like this:

 

http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural...

[Vic Deirmendjian]

Thank you much Frank.

 

Vic

[Doug T]

That's an article of yours I must have missed.  That looks like a very nice way to put it right.  By hobby ply, is that like the thin (1/4" or 1/8") baltic birch plywood?  My bigger question is, why align the grain in such a manner that it is vulnerable to such an impact fracture?  I always shoot for skew sawn, and at an angle not parallel to the side grain so it won't translate if it does.

[Frank Ford]

Why indeed.  Most of the time when I ask a manufacturer that kind of question, I get something like, "you're not supposed to drop your guitar."

 

Some makers use a laminated block to avoid the issue.

 

"Hobby ply" is birch ply, and it's available from hobby shops in thicknesses from 1/64" to about a quarter inch thick.   I'd use no more than 1/8, and if thickness of the end block is an issue, 1/16."  It's handy stuff to have around - the 1/8 stuff has at least five layers of veneer.

[Doug T]

Thanks for the clarification.  The last 3 guitars I made up laminated blocks alternating grain direction to help minimize expansion and such as well as making sure the grain was skewed.  Just seems logical.  Naval epoxy seems to hold pretty darn well.  I'll have to buy some of that stuff, now to locate a halfway decent hobby store out here.