Hey Team, I have a Collings CW Mhg A, and the rod is pegged. I'm logging 4/32 on # 12 fret. The top end is a little stiff. I got to say she is well balanced on a G chord so I really don't want to scrape any of the saddle down. Spanning a straight edge down the neck and the ruler drops about a 1/4 inch down the bridge, yup time for a neck reset. I checked out Franks blog on a Collings neck reset and I believe it's something I might try however I have one question that was not covered on the blog. Do I need to score the varnish down the heel prior to removing the neck on a Collings? I have done a few Martins and it's mandatory to score down the heel prior to a steam off. I inspected the Collings joint and it appears to me that the neck and body may have been sprayed separately Can anybody chime in.
There shouldn't be any finish between the neck and body joint of Martin's. Collings also finish their necks and bodies separately.
Best wishes,
Doc :-)
And you can see the Martin's going through their robot spray in the following video:https://youtu.be/DKAortw_jQg
Best wishes,
Doc :-)
NO STEAM
Collings necks are bolted onto the body and there is NO glue in the joint!
Often enough the neck can be reset without complete removal, but if you are removing the neck entirely, you do need to heat and unglue the fingerboard extension over the body, of course.
For some thoughts on resetting without removal, check this article on doing a similar job on an older Taylor:
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/NeckReset/...
Anthony, call Mark Althans at Collings and ask.
Sorry, Kerry - I accidentally deleted your follow-up suggest of contacting Collings by email.
Anthony - If you do contact Collings, you'll want to ask for some extra neck block plugs. You can't remove the plugs that cover the neck block bolt holes without damaging them.
So a truss rod adjustment brought it up to your preferred spec and a neck "reset" wasn't necessary?
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