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A friend of mine has bought a new Martin OM-28v and it has a glued long through saddle. I heard of old vintage models with glued long saddles, but I thought that the new guitars inspired to those instruments were modern interpretations.
What is the real utility of a glued saddle?

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It's a production thing.  Early Martins had drop in saddles, hand fitted with square-ended slots.  Starting a bit before 1920 they began slotting the ebony, gluing the saddle while it was still in the "blank" stage, and completing the bridge with the saddle in.  Later in the 60's they began to rout the saddle slot and used a drop-in saddle again.

Reissues are just that, so they did the glued saddle as part of the package.  Lately, they've innovated a longer drop-in to try  to satisfy the reissue buyer while maintaining a bit more modernity.

So, from an old production problem to a modern marketing issue! :)

Ok, but how to balance the inconveniences of a glued saddle in a modern guitar? More difficult to remove or just to set a new action. Are there any benefits? For example can a glued saddle affect positively the sound?

Hi micro.

A glued-in saddle "is what it is".  That being: the manufacturer's choice of style that are mostly included as customers' requests.

As for the maintenance issues, it's simply a procedure that must be learned.  It's part of being a repair person and a required bit of knowledge.  There are good articles in Frank's wealth of online tutorials that can give you the basics.

As for "how does it affect the sound":

There are so many "material density" differences between identical models, it is simply impossible to offer any kind of opinion on that subject or ANY other comparative differences.

(:

That's right, but today the production of guitars with glued-in saddles sounds to me as a non sense. I think the reason to request long saddles is more aesthetical than functional (the guitar looks like an old model), so why complicate the thing with non functional glued-in saddles? I mean: if they want models so closed to the vintage ones, so why don't re-introduce real old style necks without a truss rod?
:)

They did.  Try the D-18 Authentic, for example - solid T-bar neck reinforcement (non adjustable).

Ok Frank, but in that case we have a real old thrill, a complete recreation of a historic model. It's allright in a "philologic" project.

What I don't understand is why recreate an old non-functional feature in models that aren't so accurately vintage. I see a Martin OM-28v more like a modern guitar with an old spirit. Why have I to use heat lamps or complicated procedures to remove a saddle?
Am I wrong? (yes probably  :D)

hi, i'm the OM28v guy, thanks to mirco and to y'all for such an interesting discussion.

of course i'm not going to remove the saddle - it's a brand new guitar - but in a far future i think i would use the franks' lamp method. it wins me over!

at the moment i'm trying to figure out a way to lower the saddle from the top even without a fret file (the one Frank shows here ) 'cause it could be hard to find. so, any suggestion to file down the top of the saddle keeping a rounded shape on it would be appreciate, thanks in advance! ;)

Unless I'm mistaken the OM28V has a long drop-in saddle (characterized by rounded ends). Still, material must be removed from the top. Considering how hard it is to put a little saddle back if you take off too much, and how easy and fast (read 'inexpensive') for someone with experience and the right tools to do, this is a great job to let a pro do.

Micro:

You should be discussing this with Martin; NOT US.  I agree that out of date/problematic details should be corrected, but that's the manufacturer's decision. You're just 'spinning your wheels" by restating your opinion over & over.

Ansgar: For goodness sake, take the instrument to someone who knows what they're doing.

Whew!!!

I'm sorry Paul, I was only chasing some explanations to my curiosity. But you're right, that is a question for mr. Martin. I'll stop my wheels :)

@greg and @paul: i bet i'd get that (wise) advise! ;)

don't worry, i usually don't hazard anything above my abilities!

since i always set up my previous guitars that came with a standard bridge, i was wondering if i would be able to do it *safely* on a long saddle. but, as you say, i think i'll end up to a luthier this time ;)

Micro,

Best of luck in contacting Martin.  They're still a great company.

I truly applaud your point of view and manufacturers need to hear more feedback, both positive & negative, from their "real world users', not just their endorsing artists.  It's invaluable to them to have their finger on the pulse of guitar players, guitar lovers and customers.

Ciao,

Paul (-:

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