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Again I ask for a lil' help...The Martin with the crack along side the fingerboard, from my previous post....I loosened the tounge extension, and took out the screw that held it together...Still, she will not come off as easily as I thought....I don't want to be some sort of barbarian and use a hatchet like that Ford fella'...Hep me!!!...P.S...Martin DM dreadnaught

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The mortise and tenon joint is also glued. You need to apply steam to the joint in the same manner as a standard dovetail.
That is, remove the 15th fret, drill a small hole through the fingerboard for steam needle, and apply steam, it will come right out.

Jim
I removed the neck on a custom d by drilling a hole in the center of a matching bolt, like the one you removed from inside of the guitar, screw that bolt in (not too deep) and insert the steaming needle that way. I was able to avoid fret removal and the neck came out easy as pie.
I forgot to add that I have done similar repairs with that type of crack without removing the neck. It seems that that is just adding an unnecessary step to the project. The neck would be a nice lever for you to use to draw the block backwards.
Thanks!...Some guy named Frank or something like that said leave the neck on as well...He seemed like a nice enough fellow, so maybe you're both right!...
"The neck would be a nice lever for you to use to draw the block backwards."

That's absolutely the point. Keeping the neck on makes the job MUCH easier to do:

Thanks Frank!,,Unfortunatly, I've allready loosened the togue, and I don't know if I can get it back down with all the old glue gooped up underneath it...Also, I can't make the crack move pulling down on the neck...
Well with the neck off, I've tried a couple of things, and it just won't budge!! I did try to make it move when the neck was on, and it did'nt move then either..The only bracing that is loose or disconnected is directly under the tongue, where the brace with the acess hole for the truss rod...AAAAARRRRRGGGGG!!!

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