Using Behlen Violin Varnish

[Robbie Collins]

I picked up some Behlen Violin Varnish for experimentation.  I use shellac often for touch-ups, sealer coats, and a quick finish for jigs. I've heard that by adding sandarac and mastic to the shellac that it creates a much harder finish, but at the cost of drying time. Could you guys help me answer a few questions?

1) Can I use denatured alcohol rather than Behkol solvent? I have a few bottles of Everclear on the shelf.

2)  Should I thin it or just use it sparingly to get a thin coat? In the case of thinning, does anyone know the lb/cut?

3) I got this product thinking I would use a pad, but a StewMac rep suggested brushing. Does anyone have a preference?

4) If padded, do you suggest using mineral oil on the pad? Behlen says Qualasole doesn't need mineral oil, but the VV instructions are stingy.

5) What can be done to minimize drying time? I'm guessing thin coats,  lower humidity &warmer temps.  Since there is no oil in the recipe I'm guessing that sunlight isn't helpful since no cross-linking occurs.

BTW, my first patient will be a bespoke Uke.

Thanks for your help!

[Robbie Collins]

No advice here so I emailed Behlen. They replied

"Our Violin Varnish was designed to be padded on as a thin finish designed for delicate thin walled instruments where a fine finish was preferred to maintain flexibility and tonal quality. It is a softer more flexible finish which allows maximum flexibility to prevent cracking when stressed or flexed. When applied as a thin finish its softer values aren't noticeable but if applied heavily it gives the impression that it isn't drying and we get complaints of the finish printing or picking up impressions from carpeting or pads where the instrument is lain. This isn't a drying issue its a soft film issue that was not designed to be sprayed or brushed on to build a heavy guitar type finish. When applied by pad to a proper build it will dry quickly and won't print.

Its about a three pound cut of shellac but also contains a gum resin to improve flex. There's not a significant amount but it would give it a slightly higher solids content. You can reduce the varnish with ethanol (Everclear) or Denatured Alcohol. As stated above the varnish is designed to pad on and it doesn't contain oil in the formula so you should add a bit on your pad. If you brush or spray the varnish its imperative that you don't over apply it to prevent printing. I'd recommend using our Stringed Instrument Lacquer if you want to spray or build a heavier finish. "

[Robbie Collins]

Thanks, Tim, I haven't used the Tabletop Varnish ... I'll look it up.

Behlen's advice sounds to me like the standard French polishing technique, but it's unclear as to whether the same steps are used. I assume so since oil needs to be spirited off.

[Paul Verticchio]

Hi Robbie.

I'm posting only to use your reply as an example for future questions of this sort.

Whenever we have questions regarding a commercially available product, the most prudent and effective first step is to ALWAYS check with the manufacturer first. They are the ultimate experts on their products and their use. In other words, they know everything and all we know is what we've experienced.

See... you received the exact and complete information you needed :) Interacting directly with the source also benefits them as they get to communicate with the actual users and that helps them make changes to their products to more efficiently serve their customer base. It also allows us to develop personal networks within the industries... something we all need to do more often, especially if a product is performing out of spec.

In closing, I THANK YOU for sharing their reply, as it WILL benefit other forum members and is a great 'search item' for future similar questions.

Have a GREAT weekend and thanks again :)

[Robbie Collins]

Thanks, Paul, for the reply. You're right, I should have checked with Behlen first. The support guy answered a few questions (padding rather than brushing as StewMac support suggested; using oil) but not all.

I was looking into violin varnish as a way of getting a thin, durable finish with fewer bodying coats than French polishing. I'm still in the dark about whether to thin the violin varnish or just use a small amount of it on the rubber. A three pound cuts seems to viscous too me.

I think I'll take the French polishing class that Highland Hardware is holding later this month to work the bugs out of my technique.

Thanks again.