Presented for your consideration...............
Looking for insight on wood type and grain orientation to add a cleat to a neck block repair.
I purchased a FG-260 (MIT/ROC) that had damage to the dovetail neck block and to the adjacent lower side/back, some separation. The neck was still mounted to the dovetail on the damaged side, and the non-damaged side had popped loose. The neck came out easily with some hot water after I separated the fingerboard extension.
I let everything dry out about 5 days before I cleaned out the open side/back seam and got it into a good alignment. Set up a clamping system to close up the dovetail crack and loose side end. Used hot hide glue to glue everything in one step. Looks good.
Finishing up alignment for re-setting the neck and thought I should look into re-enforcing the neck block on the inside with a cleat since a 12 string will have more tension across the block.
Any insight you can share on wood type, thickness and grain orientation would be helpful. I'd like to get one in before I dial in the last bit of the neck alignment.
Thanks in advance.
It's not 100% clear to me where you propose to put this cleat. The cracked neck block is glued, right? If the crack is through the side of the block, I think I'd slap a piece of Baltic birch plywood ["aircraft ply" from a hobby shop] 1/8 or3/16 thick on that whole side.
Thank you for your reply Greg.
Yes, the crack went completely through the block. I'm planning on adding it to the out side of the neck block, capping the whole surface like you mentioned . I like the Baltic birch option. I hadn't even thought of a plywood patch, multiple direction gain pattern adds strength, light weight. I have good confirmed sources here in town.
Sometimes I can't see the plywood for the trees, or something like that.
Thanks again Greg.