I have done a few std saddle replacements using blanks from Stew Mac. Now I've been looking for a 'How to' on cutting intonated saddles. I have a Guild that has minor intonation issues with the E & B. Have not been lucky 'Googling' a primer on this task.

Any pointers?

You all have been great as I learn technique and the right tools!

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Don't know if this is what your'e looking for... scroll about halfway down the page, and profiles for a couple intonated saddles are shown.

What model Guild are you working on?
I have a GAD 50e, one of the newer models made overseas. Started as a $77 eBay salvage job and I play it on stage now, sounds great. Action plays like a Taylor.

Sorry... forgot to add the link:

That is good info!

Go here, but get sleep first; because you'll be reading a while. Fantastic resource!

edit - LOL posted at the same time :) ... and a huge Thank You to Paul.
Thank you!

That is a new source to me, now to read and learn!

This is how we do it in my shop for minor intonation adjustments that is more controlled and accurate then just slanting the shape of the bone saddle . You want to shape the saddle with a smooth ramp to the front edge facing the sound hole. Now this gives you the flattest forward adjustment on all strings. Now you can tune the guitar to pitch then check and adjust each string individually. Any string reading sharp on the tuner I slowly trim back using my Dermal tool until it reads in tune. The bit is the 3/16" diameter spiral cutter and usually comes with the tool. I will look to see if I can find the item number. Hope this gets you going and in tune. I have pictures in my archive if you want to email me.

Thanks for the tips on how you accomplish this. It makes sense and is simple. I would just have to be careful and small increments. I am understanding that the ramp you refer to is initially peaked at about 1/2 way across the saddle, then keep cutting toward tail til the string is no longer sharp or you run out of saddle!. And make sure I had 2-3 spare blanks on hand. I'm sure it gets easier after #1.

Yes, most saddles are shaped with the peak in the middle. So you can reshape the original saddle if the action is needing to come down a little anyway. If not just shape a new one. The ramping is shaped all the way to the front edge of the saddle, and closely matching the angle of the strings from the pins to the saddle. This way you get a smooth curved surface for the strings to lay on from the back to the front of the saddle. Then set your neck bow, action, and also make sure the nut action off the first fret is to proper spec. Now you have the guitar fully set up and the intonation is the last adjustment to make. I use the Dremel tool method because it allows you to work on one string at a time while the guitar is at pitch. When all the strings are stretched and in tune start with the low E. When the open note reads in tune then fret the 12th fret. It should read a bit sharp, then loosen just that string move it out of the way and with the Dremel trim a small scoop back in the bone. Do this until it reads true to the open note. Just repeat this with all strings. We find you get more accurate results when you tune to the Attack of the plucked string and use an average of 3-4 plucks while reading the tuner. Do not tune and intonate to the sustaining note. After all strings are intonate I take the saddle out sand all surfaces lightly with 600 and hit it on the buffing wheel. You will have a really nice looking custom intonate bone saddle. Let me know how it goes.
Seems like in Stew-Mac or one of the catalogs they sell a tool that screws back and forth to find the place.
I have used a paper clip wire use the bend and slip it under the string on a flattened saddle ,tune it to pitch and check the intonation than move the wire to the front and to the back checking each time ,than mark both sides of the wire on the saddle to give the spot.



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