Starting new thread on the 58 Gibson. This is the one where the neck collapsed into the sound hole.
I feel things are going well. All but one brace have been removed and glued. cracks are filled. My question is.... Do I need to put an extra brace between the neck block and the first brace?
If yes, what length, thickness and width should it be?
Hi, if it was me and I thought that area still week I would at least place a brace the same size as #1half way between neck block and first brace. Keep in mind the ends of the new brace need to be supported at its ends, as are the others.
I just did the same repair on an acoustic bass, the action was 23mm at the 12th fret. I managed to get it all done through the sound hole. I modified the neck block, replace original brace, and added an extra brace.
Good luck with yours.
Hey Taff, so as you know the other braces were glued under the kerfing. when removing the braces i had to cut one end on each to remove them. are you saying I need to support those somehow as well? How do I do that?
Ha ha, I thought I’d give you time to work it out. I’m not able to post photos at the moment as away from office.
I have repaired many guitar tops due the them collapsing because of unsupported braces.
Hi again, back at the workshop.
Did you work out the problem Lex?..
Here are a couple of pics to help you out. Think outside the box to adapt these ideas to your issue.
I use different methods for different guitars.
Here are two methods on the same guitar. the supports are mine - THE MESSY REPAIR WAS BY SOMEBODY ELSE.
Same old X brace cleaned up ready to go back in, with supports of course.
These repairs are all done through the soundhole, you would get a neater job with the back off.
okay, I have so idea’s running through my mind now. Thanks for the help. I will post a pic when I get it done. The bracing that is. I really appreciate the help. Some Luthiers do not want to share.
I have been there. When first started I traveled 4000km with a list of twelve luthiers in Australia, and after giving them a heads-up phone call, only three gave me time of day.
It made me more determined to find my own solutions. And now we have the internet. Even my customers are experts now. Haha.
Hi Taff, so I put an extra brace in the neck area. I may have gone too big. already glued it. I can remove some wood if you think it needs it. It's 3/16 thick. I did round the edges.
Also how should I prepare the bridge area? some of the wood splintered off.
Hi Lex, you must have misread my earlier post, extra brace same as the first brace, but what you have done will work.
As for the bridge, hmmm? clean off the old glue, make sure the radius on the underside of the bridge matches the top radius [if there is one], and glue it back. It looks like there are two bolt holes that were used before, use them again.
The alternative, you don't want to try...
Hi Lex, it's always nice to hear how useful members' advice has been in solving a problem, how did yours turn out? Please let us know, we may all learn something new that way.
Hi Taffy, thanks for reaching out. I had to put things on hold for a bit.
However I am ready to put the back on. Trying to figure the best way to do that. Probably will have to jump in and do it. I made a bunch of spool clamps and did a trial run. Things don’t line up real good as I’m sure you know. Once that is done I will report. Everything else has gone good.
Hey Lex thanks for getting back, a dry run is always a good move, saves dramas later on.
I have just finished a repair that has been in the too-hard basket for over 30 years, now it's done I can't understand why I avoided it. It was a back-off job too.
Would you recommend gluing all at once are bottom half first then top or visa versa? As you know the neck will raise or lower depending. That has me worried about a possible reset.