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 Pleased to present for your consideration. . . . . . . . .

Hobbyist here, not my profession.

I picked up an old 69 Harmony H162 as a practice cadaver to get a chance to repair a solid wood mahogany side, it had a 11 inch split in it. I have another mid 50's H162 waiting, with a similar issue. I plan for these two to be practice pieces as I have two more better guitars that are in need of a similar side repair waiting to see how this comes out. 

I used hot hide glue to repair the tight crack.  No issues there.  I could see a moisture line on the inside so I know I got glue completely through the crack.

Now I want to reinforce the side from the inside. 

I'm leaning toward vertical cleats because the wood has failed already in one line.  I would span the whole vertical length, kerf to kerf. 

Would you shape the glue side of the cleat to match the inside curve of the side?  I have a cadaver body that has no back that closely matches the curves and can attach sandpaper on the inside to help create the shape.

What wood would you advise?

Minimum width and thickness?

Feather the edges, or leave at 90 degrees?

I plan to place a cleat about 1 inch on each side of the low point on the waist.  And then at lengths along the entire length of the crack. 

Do you place a cleat over each end of the crack, like a cap?  How much space do you recommend between cleats?

Would you mirror cleats on the opposite side, since they were cut from the same piece?  Or would that just be for my practice or ascetics?

I hope to do both Harmony's one after the other. Then set them aside as they have other issues I can practice on.  Then jump into the other two which are intermediate level units.

When it comes time for the 1905-06 Washburn repair, I'll be back again because its a special guitar.

I'm rambling, so, thanks for any insights you may be able share.

John 

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I would make reinforcements about 1" wide that span from kerf to kerf. Either side of the waist where the direction of curve changes is the most important place to reinforce. I would use 1/32" thick birch hobby plywood, outside grain oriented front to back. Using rare earth magnets to clamp, the plywood will flex to conform to the curved side. Four or five should do it.

Dampen the back side of the cleats as well so they don't curl up from the water in the glue. I'd just use Titebond so I had time to get them aligned nice.

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