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Very sneaky. You spec a solid plastic body and they use cheep wood as filler to lower the cost.
I'm sure you all know I like shellac a lot. In my limited work, it's not really much of an issue what I chose to use for finish. When I use lacquer, which I'm not set up to spray in any volume, I like to do a few thin coats then sand back a bit, particularly when I have fills. You all know the drill.
For those who may not know too much about finishing, my personal approach, when I sand, is to start very lightly so I can feel for any pulling or sticking which I take as an indication that it's not ready yet. The lacquers that I've tried all require at least two weeks before I can do more than light, between coats, sanding without sticky/pulling problems. With fills, I learned the hard way that the only way to handle them it is it fill and sand, fill and sand, etc... then wait. The larger the fill, the longer I have to wait. Trying to hurry things only makes it harder to get it right. ( It's no fun stripping the wax you worked so hard to buff on as protection. Carnauba wax is hard stuff! ) The guitar I mentioned earlier has several long crack repairs that were filled/sanded until they were level... when I put it away. Now every one of them is showing again and will need attention. Thus it goes.
I went to a private school for my highschool years. They split their day into two segments with freshmen/juniors in the morning and sophomores/seniors in the afternoon. One started early and the other finished late. The reason for this was that it afforded the students time to work a job to help us pay for our relatively expensive education. I spent a couple of those years working for a cabinet company that was actually established in the area to give employment to many of the students. The lacquer they/we used was heat curried in much the way Peter was talking about. It was an interesting change from the spray finishes I was already acquainted with from working with my father, who also built cabinets.
The finish went on very thick in comparison to what my father and I did. The spray rig was airless which made it VERY easy to create runs and sags on the vertical surfaces. Without the dryers, it would have been impossible to get a clean, run free finish using this material. It was fast.. but it was not as durable nor as fine a finish as could be done using many thin coats and patience. The factory finish was applied in three layers, the first was a thin coat designed to apply the color mixed with a sealer, followed immediately by a heavier coat of clear. This quickly run through a dryer to set the finish, then passed through a handing sanding and finish inspection section of the line. Once the work passed the initial inspection, the cabinet was given a thinner ( but not really thin) coat to "gloss" the finish. This lacquer was a slightly different formula which, if not sprayed too heavily would not sag or run too easily. There was another inspection of the finish with a final trip through a dryer at the end. The finish produced was ok for a factory finish but nothing like a great finish. The truth is that most people don't really know what a really good finish looks like AND, perhaps more importantly, "quality" in a factory production setting almost always carries a different definition than "quality" in a small shop setting.
Every finish I know of, that I can actually apply in my work setting, takes time and effort and requires a totally different skill set. I have seen quite a few hand build, well made instruments with terrible finishes.
It's just a completely different skill set that a lot of woodworkers never really develop very well.
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