Neck problem on a Martin 000-18

[Brad Elbein]

There's a young man--the son of a friend of mine--who wants to fix the neck of a mahogany Martin 000-18 guitar.  I volunteered to help, figuring I'd learn something.  (I'm in the middle of my second build, an octave mandolin.)  The crack in the neck doesn't look too terrible: 

 

I know the guitar probably isn't worth fixing, economically, but it will be a learning experience for him (and for me), so I thought I'd solicit help.  Does anyone know what the neck joint looks like?  Am I right that he's going to have to steam the joint and then shim it?  We can't tell anything about the action because this baby hasn't had strings for many a year.  Otherwise the guitar looks to be in excellent condition.  Many thanks in advance for your help.

[Tim Mace]

I like the simplicity of a well crafted bolt-on ,have a very good ear(imo) and can find nothing to support the claims about dovetails.Being no expert at building has taught me that using very good wood and tight fits almost always produce excellent tones when the instrument is brought to a high level of playability & intonation. I will probably attempt a D/T someday but just don't feel I'm ready and I won't be making it based on any of the BS in the Martin video..

[Brad Elbein]

That very wierd video aside, the dovetail vs. bolt on is a live debate everywhere.  Over on the Mandolin Cafe, someone linked to an article that studied bolt-on vs. dovetail.  I won't say it was scientific, exactly, and certainly not peer-reviewed, but it was a very careful and methodical.  It said:  no difference in a well executed joint.  As far as SOUND. 

As far as longevity, I haven't seen anything on this. 

This debate and so many others is essentially the debate between traditionalists and non-traditionalists.  I tend to stay out of them, whether its dovetail vs. bolt, frailing vs. Scruggs, gut vs. metal, solid wood vs. ply, marine plywood vs. fiberglass ... etc.  But they're interesting to watch.