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Martin HD 28V built 2001 has a glued in set/long/through saddle. I read pappa Frank's article on removing it (to replace it.) Does anyone have any thoughts to add to that? Thanks. sister Lori

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you might be able to route it away ?
Yeah, Paul. That's the, dare I say it, the route we're going to take. Martin in PA, uses a 3/32 bit--same size as the saddle itself. I talked to John Carruthers in the L.A. area, who prefers a smaller laminate trimmer bit--then go larger if necessary. Thanks for responding.
You should try to heat it up and yank it out first. I use a mask that fits around the bridge, made of corrugated cardboard covered with aluminum foil. Then a second similar mask has a slot that just allows the saddle to peek through. I position a heat lamp a few inches above the saddle and get it toasty. Less than 10 minutes and it comes loose. The bridge never gets warm enough to be an issue.
well i have watched rose wood bridges smoke under a heat lamp and bubble
So have I, Paul, but it's not necessary to get a saddle nearly that hot for it to let go. The bridge is protected by a cardboard/foil shield.
.I'm told that the glue Martin now uses is heat and moisture resistant. BTW, my corrected date of manufacture of this Martin's serial # is mid 2002. It still might be worth a gentle try. Thanks.
By the by, it's an ebony bridge. I know one can do a nicely shielded heat lamp trick, but I'm a bit concerned about barely softening the bridge glue which might somewhere down the road result is a mild bridge lifting/separation, eh? Greg: right after you remove your shielding, do you find the bridge is a wee bit warm to touch?
how about a fat tip soldiering gun 80 watt plus with the fat tip like i use to pull frets ?
Lori, any warmth on the bridge is confined to the area immediately around the saddle slot. There's no way it has any effect on the bridge glue joint. You might try the soldering gun idea, but I don't think the saddle itself is a very good heat conductor. No harm in trying, though.
You guys are great. Thanks.
I have used a small and short saw like this stew mac fret slot cleaner with good success on glued/lacquered in saddles. I have good control and it really doesn't that long. Score the outside, slice the saddle, and collapse the walls. I support under the bridge to stabilize the work.




wow i wounder why that saddle was glued down in the first place ?

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