Should be a standard neck reset. Just a reminder to score the finish with an exacto knife, around the heel to body joint, to eliminate chipping.
How did the project turn out?
I was just doing some research about 40's era Gibson resets on Google and landed back here to my friends at Frets.net.
My personal favorite acoustic, my long time buddy, and cherished friend Mr. 1948 LG-2, has "technically" been needing a neck reset since we made friends in 1995 for a scant $350. Before I started working on guitars, I had the bridge shaved down a tad and a lower nut installed and it has been quite playable, though not as much as I'd like.
I'm a bit hesitant to try it on my favorite acoustic, as I've only done one reset and that was recently on a friend's Harmony Sovereign which was a text-book operation and much easier than what I had anticipated. So my ambition says reset it, but I also worry that I might upset something or run into one Gibson's infamous surprises I've heard about here and there. I just don't want to hurt my baby.
It also needs a re-fret which could affect the action favorably as they were plum worn out when I bought it and I've really played it A LOT and it can take no more leveling/dressing.
Any thoughts or experiences from this reset that might be helpful?
Many thanks - John
In some of the Gibsons from that era, the neck was set in the dovetail before the top was put on. This means that it's really not a standard reset after all, as you have to remove the fingerboard first, then excavate an area of the top that is covering the dovetail, so that the neck can be lifted out of the dovetail. It's really messy if you don't get that right. You'll know it when you pump steam in and no matter what you do, the neck won't pull, because it's trapped.
Just one more note on those darn Gibsons. The neck was installed before finish and they glued the neck heal to sides as well as the dovetail joint. Getting these apart requires a little extra time and patience during the steaming process.
Good to know! Thanks!