I remember in the "olden days " , I could get a green and clear " Aircraft epoxy" from LMI...When I called them and asked them about it, they said it was overkill, and no longer carried it....This stuff was reportadly...." Used in place of welds on aircraft"...I used it for 3 years and it dissappeared...What is it???...P.S. Many punk guitars still together with same headstock!

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One of my favorite TV shows is Modern Marvels. One episode I saw was about adhesives. They showed some interesting stuff about all kinds of adhesives. Technology has brought about some glues that are made to attach metal. They demonstrated the strength and it was truly amazing. I think they are (or will be) using this stuff to assemble automobiles. The new materials are worth our time to discover. Hide glue is a good product but I believe there are other options yet to be discovered by us as luthiers. I never used the type of epoxy you mentioned but I'm sure it (or something similar) has its place on our shelf. I think knowing which type of adhesive to use in each situation is critical to know.
Ronnie Nichols
the best epoxy in the world is made by a company called west systems epoxy its used to build sail boats and motor boats...also is the main agent used to glue on prs necks and taylor guitars uses it frequently in their repair used to be able to get this stuff called devcon at home depot that was pretty good but it's no longer least around me.....lock tite sucks and doesnt kick so i would just stick with west systems'll have to mail order it and it can be a little pricy...hint- spend the extra bucks and get the stuff that comes in the pump. it makes portioning the resin and kicker alot easier and that is the most important step in getting the stuff to kick right
hope this helps
Kick?? terminology unfamiliar...
kick is to set the glue some people say set-up.... basically harden
I think the commonly used words are hardener or accelerator...
I heartily second the recommendation of West Systems epoxy. The pump dispensers are essential to getting the right ratio of resin to hardener (industrial epoxies aren't 1:1). It also cures rock-hard.
I used West Systems epoxy for around two and a half years but became dissatfisfied with it for two reasons. First, it seemed not to have a very long shelf life (~6mo) and, second, even fully cured, didn't give me as hard a cure as I thought I needed. I use epoxy for glueing headplate veneers, fingerboards onto necks, neck blocks to sides, and necks onto bodies via mortice and tenon. I switched over to LMII's Zpoxy about a years ago and have been completely satisfied with its performance. It cures to a very hard solid (not rubbery at all) and has much less critical proportion requirements that West System stuff. I built a cocobolo classical guitar using the Zpoxy and it was alot less hassle than I expected.

There's also 3M #2216 epoxy, which is very, very strong.
Just my opinion.
When it comes to instrument repairs, or building, I very seldom use epoxy for anything. I pretty much use hot hide glue, titebond, or superglue for everything that needs gluing.

I've also had some bad experiences where other repair people glued things with epoxy that shouldn't have been.

I repair golf clubs and the 2 part epoxy used for putting shafts in the heads is very good. Places like Golfsmith, Golfworks have it. Brampton Technology Makes the brand I use.
That´s what I was going to ask...
Is there any way of disassembling a joint glued with epoxy?

If not, epoxy does not seem like an optimal choice for neck joint, fingerboard, bridge...?



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