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a source of invaluable information and inspiration., Thanks Frank:)

I normally build one piece Maple necks and leave them unbound.

I thought I'd try applying binding to one just for S&G but I'm not sure about how to do it.

Do you just glue it to the sides of the neck and then feather it to as small a lip as possible

on the lower part? Does the binding need a channel? Use the thinnest binding material?

Don't try it?

thanks

Walter

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HI Jeff,

I guess it would depend on how the channel is cut.

I would definitely slot first. Slotting is my first operation on any neck blank. As an aside,  I've found that slots

run through the planer or even across the jointer if necessary without damage. Of course, if that's done, then slot depth is changed and must be adjusted accordingly.  It's just cool because sometimes accidents occur and the board may get a minor dent or surface imperfection and it's nice to be able erase it with a very light pass thru the planer and not lose the slots entirely.

Bur it seems like it would be easier to cut the wabbet on a square board.

How would you cut the channel?

cheers,

Walter

I would cut it on a router table with a binding cutter bit

Basically a flush trim bit with an undersized bearing

 If doing it before radiusing and profiling, which is what I would do, increase the height of cut to allow for it

 

All I meant by the prevous reply is don't bind before slotting

Gotcha.

A router table is on my wish list. MLCS has an affordable table saw extension router table top

that I may go for this year. I have a too small shop. Who doesn't right?:)

thanks

Walter

I used a board clamped to my tablesaw with router attached for quite a few years.

There used to be a furniture store here in Austin that was owned by Willie Kocurek.

His slogan always was "Where there's a Wiilie there's way."

walter

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