Can Titebond be used to repair joints previously glued with PVA.

[Mike Keen]

Thanks for reading.

I usually repair mandolins and like using hide glue. However I have a small problem:

I'm repairing a nyckelhapa (Swedish bowed fiddle), made in 2006. It has a 2 piece front (3-4mm thick, soundboard) and the centre joint has just failed. I was bringing the last of 16 strings up to tension when there was a loud snapping sound and a six inch hairline crack appeared on the glue line, under the bridge (the total seam length is about 20 inches.. The nyckelharpa is constructed like a violin or cello. It has a bassbar and a soundpost. The soundpost in this instrument is way too thin and now I've removed it I can see it was badly fitted and has compressed. Once the strings were loosened it's was a very loose fit- probably why it failed..

 

For some reason best known to themselves, most Swedish nyckelhapa makers use PVA wood glue. Unfortunately PVA has been used on this instrument.

 

So I'm after some advice. I don't want to strip the instrument down. The (arched) top hasn't sunk, the crack is clean along the glue line and the soundboard it 3-4mm thick. I can easily get glue into the joint and clamp it. The question is what glue to use.

My head tells me to use PVA, but all my instincts say it's the wrong glue for the job. So could I use Titebond (yellow)? Is titebond compatable with PVA, do you think and titebond would penetrate into the wood and would this give a stronger joint.

 

Give me you thoughts please.

 

Thanks Mike

[Dave Fox]

I absolutely LOVE Titebond Original, I use hide glue when I need to. I absolutely detest plain white glue.  I have had a lot of good luck with the water-thin CA glue that someone else mentioned, too.

 

Dave