Early Martin 2 1/2 17 neck reset

[Eric Steven Johansen]

So I have this really fine 1850's Martin 2 1/2 17 that needs a neck reset. Ice cream cone heal with an ebonized maple neck. The body is amazingly crack free with no signs of previous repairs. Even have the original coffin case with label intact. Here's my question, Standard dovetail in those days or ? The headstock was in pieces when I got it but everything was there so I've reassembled it. Still need to fill in the bolt holes left from an old repair. I'm including a few shots as well.

[Frank Ford]

It's a double dovetail kind of deal:

 

[Eric Steven Johansen]

So would you use steam or heating blanket on this. That mitre/dovetail area looks like it would take a while for the steam to reach. You don't by chance already have a tutorial somewhere ? Is the heal/headblock integral ?

[Eric Steven Johansen]

Just looked inside again and do not believe headblock and heal are one piece. So this joint was done as part of the neck assembly and then they dovetail this into the block, duh. Just do a normal reset and do not over heat as you'll separate this joint. Now that I'm awake I thought I'd post a few more shots. This one is cool in that I've been able to trace some history, first through the label inside and the because someone signed the top, on the outside.

[Eric Steven Johansen]

And a few more photos.

[Hugh Hansen]

These are real fun, but getting them out is sometimes difficult.  Luckily, this one just about fell out, (too bad just squirting glue into a loose neck joint doesn't work) but all the glue joints had already failed so I took everything apart and reglued.  I also made some cuts across the 45 degree joint and reinforced it with carbon fiber, as this is the part of the joint that usually fails due to high stress and a low amount of surface area.  Also the heel to barrel joint is one of the few original hide glue joints that I believe is better glued with epoxy, particularly heat resistant epoxy, (easy now epoxy haters, everything has its place if done properly) so next time someone has to remove the neck, it comes out in one piece.  This neck was actually overset so I ended up adding material to the bottom of the heel.  Fortunately some black pigment in seedlac airbrushed and followed by french polishing is an easy touch up  It would be tough to imagine a more complicated way of making a guitar neck and attaching it to a guitar body but that's how they did it.  Also the repair to the headstock looks strangely familiar...  

 

[Eric Steven Johansen]

Great pictures. I planed on removing the fret board to get the best access possible to the joint. I like the idea of reinforcing the mitre but I want to stay as close to original as I can. Looks like yours and mine were repaired by the same guy at one time.

[Eric Steven Johansen]

Just thought I'd follow up on my original post. Got the old girl separated today and it was one of the easiest neck removals I've ever done. Decided against removing the board and no regrets. I'm thinking of shimming the heal at the top to alter the set as the bottom of the cone is so small. Any thoughts?

[Mark McLean]

Dear Eric and Hugh

This is a really interesting thread.  I have zero experience or knowledge to contribute - I just thought I would jump in with some appreciation to both of you for sharing this stuff.  Please keep the story and pictures coming!

Mark