Hello good people,

I found your wonderful site the other day and i just had a technical question.
This has been bugging me for a while now and i haven't managed to fix it by any means. I have an electroacoustic guitar ( pretty cheap one i might add). My problem is that certain strings ( the B, G, and A strings ) sound too sharp (sometimes even 15-20 cent sharp) when i play them all across the neck, even though the open strings are in tune. I have done the following to try and fix it:
-changed string gauge
-filed down original non-compensated saddle
-tightened truss rod
-filed the nut slots so that they are at an angle
-filed down compensated saddle

NOTHING WORKED!!! The frets don't seem to have a problem, the action is really good now and the strings are 0.11 strings if that helps. And what's even stranger is that when i adjusted the nut slots everything seemed almost perfect after..but a few hours later THE PROBLEM WAS BACK ...So PLEASE PLEASE tell me what i could do to fix this. I don't even feel like playing guitar anymore because of this.

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Have you measured to see if the saddle is in the correct position? they are not always in the right spot (especially the cheap ones) that is to say check your scale length. Measure from the leading edge of the nut (next to the fretboard) to the middle of the 12th fret. the distance from the nut to the middle of the saddle between the "G" and "D" string should be 2 times this measurement plus .100th in. about 1/8th inch
hope that helps
yup..measured's pretty good...the thing is sometimes the notes are perfect..but sometimes they're too sharp on these 3 changes in time :|

thanks for your reply though...
make sure that you are pressing streight down on the string and not sliding sideways.

I always thought that the distance was the same from nut to 12fret in the middle and then middle of twelvth fret to touch point on the saddle. Is that 100th inch or 1/8"vital here,set us straight with thanks? How do you measure 100th of a inch when my smallest ruler is in 64ths? -nanccinut
you learn to convert fractions into decimals visa versa 12 times 12 plus 1/16 and 1/8th inch inclination
I read a great article on equal tempered tuning the guitar recently. Was it by Frank Ford? Could be, i don't recall. Anyway, it resolved a similar issue I've had with my guitars. Fret the b string at the 5th fret and tune it to the high E. Then fret 3rd string at 9th fret and tune to high e. Then 4th string at 14th, 5th string at 19th and/or octave at 7th. Then low e octave harmonic, all to hi e. This way the guitar is equally tempered....the best its gonna get. After all your efforts to correct the compensation, if that doesn't help, you'll need a bigger hammer.
Here is a link to creating a compensated saddle which seems to speak to your problem. Making a new compensated saddle is completely, easily reversible!

I sympathize with you. This would make me crazy.

Have you considered outside influences such as the humidity or temp? You didn't mention how long it plays in tune when it's working. Is it this way for a while or is it a short time? Do you vary your tunings or use standard tuning and leave it? Is the bridge fairly flat to the face of the guitar? Does the saddle fit well in the slot?

You might try measuring the scale length and string height at the 12th fret as precisely as you can when it is playing well and compare these to measurements taken when it plays poorly. It sounds to me like you have something changing the scale length periodically.
You say you have filed the nut slots with a backward angle, which is great. But, have the slots been lowered to the optimum height first? Many people don't seem to realise the importance of nut height when intonation is concerned. And cheaper end guitars do tend to have the action left high at the factory, especially the nut which is never touched at all on many imports!
It's easy to sharp fretted notes, especially G, B, and high E by pressing too hard. Even veteran players can be guilty of this when they are pumped and playing hot. Try playing the offending notes/chords with just enough fretting hand pressure to keep the buzz away.
Left hand technique will vary with right hand attack, but balance is the key (pun intended). Your left hand will last longer and be less prone to injury also.

All I got to say is that true temper stuff is totlal madness!!! Maybe a border collie could hear that!!!...KISS...keep it simple stupid!


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