LG-0 scale length compensated fixed saddle

[Bob Gaddis]

I have a 1964 LG-0 that belongs to a friend. It was hurt, There was a big hole punched in the back, The braces were either cracked or loose. The action was ridiculously high due to the the bellied top. It belongs to a friend who had a stroke and is no longer working and has no income. A local "luthier" attempted to make it playable by lowering the saddle in the plastic bridge. It resulted in lots of annoying busses and rattles.

My plan so far:

repair the hole in the back by judicious gluing with splinters...done

replace the plastic bridge with a rosewood bridge with fixed saddle, I'll have to make a bridge because any aftermarket bridge doesn't quite line up.

replace the spruce bridge plate with maple....almost there, got the spruce plate off.

flatten the top by moisturizing, warming and clamping,

The holdup right now is making the bridge. I plan to leave some extra wood behind the string holes to add gluing surface. I will plug the bridge bolt-holes with mahogany. 

My question concerns the slant of the bridge saddle. Will the angle of the saddle in the plastic bridge be adequate to duplicate for decent chording compensation, or should I increase the angle of the saddle. I will likely use  X-light bronze wound strings. any thoughts before I proceed?

[Ron Ellison]

On the Stewmac page;

https://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Guitar_...

there are instructions for using their 'Saddlematic tool. I made a jig out of wood scraps that did the same job and used their instructions to to find the compensated saddle position when replacing the front on a badly damaged LG0. It worked out fine.