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Hi All,

 I've had a few neck re-sets through the workshop recently (lucky me). I always take a photo of the join once it's apart in case I do one the same again. It's handy to know what angle/depth to drill the streaming holes.

Does anyone else do this?

Is it possible to have a gallery page on this forum to show them all? - might be a useful resource for us.

Just a thought

 Glyn

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Hi Paul,

   Thanks for the info! I hope I never have to replace it. This one was gifted to me from a dentist some years ago. It seems quite solid to me, certainly considering the work I've put it through. I used to make the Veritas tools here in Canada, so I think I have a good idea of quality and solid tools and I would say this particular one is well made.

Cheers,

Doc

Very COOL, Doc.

I have MANY Veritas tools and consider them to be an incredible value among quality tools.

:)

Yes, thanks Paul.

Not my work here, but I found some photos on another site of a Breedlove Atlas series guitar that someone tore apart. These neck joints aren't made to be serviceable, but I figured I'd post a link here anyways, because it's relevant. I think they were trying to do a bolt on conversion, but they sure made a mess. Again, this isn't my work.

http://imgur.com/a/9C0P5

The one tagged as #5 looks just like the neck joint on a Vega tenor guitar I just reset.  Big surprise when I found that it was similar to the neck joint on a viol family instrument like a cello.  Very hard to get the neck out as it was completely filled with glue.  Also made me uncomfortable as to stability because of the small amount of glueing area.  Looked like a combination of shallow dado and butt joint.

I think this is a post kay acquisition of silvertone Im under the impression it is from an aristocrat...Sadly the area required to drill was under an inlay. not the fret beyond the body joint. Very Narrow space. 

I will be posting the Before and afters of the entire repair on my page later. Thanks guys

(Damage from previous repair ( strongly underset, excessive glue, puddy and sloppy chisel work) and previous Owner ( setup as a ten string)

1965 Gibson LGO

This instrument is constructed with Red ureaformaldehyde glue and I wasn't sure if it would also had been used to glue up the neck. Fortunately, it turned out to be hide glue. However, it also turned out the sides are plywood and the thin Mahogany veneer had a better bond to the neck heel than the next ply underneath it. I got some tear out as a result and now know that in the future, if I get another one of these guitars, I need to work the heel to side glue joint with a thin separating blade to make sure the Mahogany veneer stays on the guitar. The dove tail pocket did not have much glue but the neck heel was slathered with it, I'll have some time in cosmetic repairs on this project.

The neck pocket was directly below the 15th fret, no issues finding it.

I haven't posted in a while so here are a few in the shop. The Gibson Heritage and the B25-12 are from a friend who is no longer with us, his work was always heavy handed but was a good guy. 

Attachments:

And a few more. The last shot is a Veena in the shop for fretwork just thought I'd share as few of these are seen up close. FWI the fingerboard is made of WAX!

Attachments:

Here's one that most luthiers will likely never work on, but I'll put it in the neck reset gallery just in case.  It's a Grunewald 12-string, made ca. 1900 in New Orleans, and is among the earliest of 12-strings.  Luckily, the neck joint is a typical dovetail, and not a mortise and tenon like some of the early 'off-brands'.  

I wasn't sure where the pocket was on this one, since it was my first, so I used a smaller bit than my steam hole bit and a hand chuck to carefully drill straight down.  I didn't hit the pocket, so I angled back a bit, starting from the same hole, and immediately hit the pocket ... whew!  I then drilled my normal hole and hit it with steam for about 2-3 min, and the neck came off without issue.   Before I steamed, I stuck a string into the hole to give a visual of the drill bit angle necessary.  

Tom

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