Happy New Year to all.
Mine will be slightly happier when I finish my new guitar. Its my first size 1. My smallest to date. All curly maple with carpathian top. This ones been going slow. Oh well.
Frank I'd appreciate your wisdom on this as well.
Sorry if this runs on;
The day after buffing out the lacquer , I noticed a line which I first though to be a sanding line I missed. After looking at it through a magnifying glass, I saw it to be a crack into which the finish had settled. I never saw any sinking throughout the whole finishing procedure with two days between every other coat. Maybe happened during buffing?
I put some naphtha on the area in question to see if it came through to the inside. It didn't so I figured any fix would be done inside.
Anyhow, wanting to be sure, I hot hide glued a long, narrow patch under the crack. (see pictures). Using a caul with a small magnet inside and a half inch magnet outside. (see pictures)
The next day I removed the caul and magnets only to find it looked worse than before.
Now The question;
Would simply, lightly damping this patch area with cool water( not to loosen the glue) bring it back or make it worse?
If I need to dampen, Do you think I need to remove the patch before dampening? If so, should I try to cleat again?
Maybe just a painting of HHG instead of patch?
Never having had this problem, and the guitar is ready to place and glue on the bridge and neck is ready to set. I'd hate to really goof it up at this point.
All wisdom welcome, Thanks.
PS I hope the pics turn out
Hide glue carries a lot of water, and it can distort the flat spruce after a repair like that. My first order of business would be to let everything dry out for a couple of weeks to see how it stabilizes. Then, block sanding and polishing may well bring back the flat shiny surface. The pic can't show the depth, and it might be necessary to add some finish in there before all is done.
Thanks Frank for the quick reply. Its only been 2 days since I glued it up, so it has a ways to go. I'll give it the full 2 weeks. Patience isn't always my strong point, so I'm glad I asked.
Also I have really enjoyed having the Frets.com disc in my shop(no internet there). I replaced the wood under the bridge of a 1960 D18 beveling inside like you showed,( it had the cross grain break at bridge front and through the pin holes almost identical to the one you showed) then bridge plate and bridge installed. Worked great.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us.