Hmm, those are pretty tiny images. First of all, I agree with Cliff and will go him one better, since this guitar was obvious put together with aliphatics: glue fresh wood to fresh wood, only. Sometimes you can lift spruce off the bottom of a bridge and glue it back in place on the top, then level and clean up that surface before regluing the bridge. That's usually more practical when a lot of spruce came off with the bridge. This might be the case here, but the images are so small I can barely tell. If you can't razorblade the spruce off, you may have to inlay spruce, concentrating on the wings and back edge, since they do all the work.
Is this top solid or laminated? If it's laminated, I'd recommend bailing altogether. Spruce in laminated tops doesn't have much strength, and it's only hanging on by a glue seam with the center lamination anyway.
If it's solid, you need to build up the spruce surface somehow, either with spruce salvaged from the bridge, or elsewhere. Tedious, but necessary. Dust+glue will not work: real wood.
Once you're done and the bridge is ready to go back on, make sure the bridgeplate is perfect. Many bridges lift because the string balls have pulled through both the bridgeplate and the top and are pulling directly on the bridge itself. This should never happen.
Unless you know what the glue originally used is and also know whether it'll accept more glue you should get to fresh wood.
Many glues can not receive more of the same or other glues over top. Epoxies are usually good if you strip away the Amines with a little scuffing with abrasive, hide is great no need to do anything you can apply more, but aliphatic and polyvinyl glues tend to be really unfriendly.
And in this location you need a real good glue joint
i would almost have to say glue it like it is ...you look pretty deep into the top and my guess is that there is no glue in those untouched pores....hard to say for sure from your pics but thats my two cents...p.s. more heat next time