A while back we had a discussion on Sigma neckjoints, and those I had experienced by then were dovetails. However I have recently taken part in a discussion in a swedish forum, where a guy I know is working on a Sigma DM-5, imported and sold by Levin Guitars in the late 70:s.

I know Sigmas were sourced from several japanese manufacturers and some of them even had solid tops (however I have never seen proof of that). Some of those imported by Levin were rather indipendant from the Sigmas sold by Martin on the US market, except from model names, material specs and marking.

This particular DM-5 sample (DM-5 was a D-18 copy) had a cracked neck heel and were in need of a neck reset. The guy working on it couldn't get a grip on the type of joint and asked for advice. Now the neck is removed and I just thought I'd show the pictures. I have never seen this kind of joint before, and I can't say I like it.


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Lools exactly like a "Washburn" that I took the neck and top off of a few months ago. The nect needed resetting while all the braces on the top were loose due to hot car syndrome. Without any specific knowledge I believe these are from the Samick Korean factory.

What type of glue was used? Do you have an idea. The problem with resetting necks on a lot of these asian imports was that they used epoxy. Not easy to get undone like hide or titebond without causing damage.
The one I took apart was probably some sort a aliphatic (sp?) resin - "white" glue - as water and steam readily loosened it with little wood tearing. And that the top under the fret board end as usual.

I asked the guy working on the Sigma and the glue was white, and responded to heat and wetting as Aliphatic glue. I may be something similar to "Elmers Glue".

I b'leeve there's two more dowels in the cracked-off part of the heel. Have fun!
Hobbiest here, reader discression advised. Looks like the Conn F-7,( Korean made, all laminate), neck joint I just reset. It was 5 dowels in a "Y" pattern. It had epoxy/ wood paste filling any gaps. Had a repaired break in the heel in about the same place. But it had massive amount of finish sprayed on after the neck was attached when originally assembled that had to be cut through on the lower heel portion. I used Frank's "saw it off tutorial" to separate the neck and body. Had to remove a significant amount of material from the lower portion of the heel to re-set the neck properly. Couldn't re-use the dowel holes with the new geometry, went to a modified bolt on system. Another mystery of the orient revealed.



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