I'm gathering from research that the finish does use a polyurethane top coat. Can I sand the polyester finish, then use a lacquer finish to polish out, or just use a polyurethane?
"Now if the finish looks as though it has been dipped in a vat of liquid it most likely has a poly finish on it (polyester, polyurethane, or a urethanenamal). These finishes, which are found on most imports and American made electrics made after the mid 60's. Once these finishes dry
they are very hard and when cured no solvent that I know of will soften them, which means it will not dissolve or melt into itself. So with this in mind it makes it almost impossible to make invisible repairs (though it can be done). So for touch-ups use super glue."
Wow the "Guitar ER" must be in the plagerism business. That quote about dipping the guitar in a vat of liquid is a word for word rip off from Dan Erlewine's book The Guitar Player Repair Guide.!!! And if you want more info on these finishes borrow Dan's book from the library or better yet buy it. The are very few repair questions that are not answered in that book.. Also there is a book that explains wood finishes in general (if memory serves) called Understanding Wood Finishes. That I borrowed from the library and it was also very good.
Ooooh, I just found out different and it may cost me a refinishing job. Shellac has a pretty hard time sticking to a cyanoacrylate sealed surface, like the side or back of a French polished guitar. I just had a pach of finish come off of the headstock when I peeled off a piece of extremely low tack tape. I thought I was being so cool sealing with CA. Smart enough by half...
So..., as always, nothing beats first hand knowledge gained from testing it out on an expendable item.. I think you're right, though, about it sticking to a poly finish but a little testing could save some grief.
shellac will stick to ca but you have to use good shellac not the pre mixed stuff.....works great for touch ups on ca glued cracks on a nitro finish.....first glue with ca then scrape and flat sand...then a shot of shellac or two ..let it cure for a week...then a shot of nitro and finish sand and buff...you'll never see the blend line from the ca and the nitro wont sink when curing nearly as much when applied right over the ca...the ca causes the laquer to burn almost and it sinks alot...wont happen if you prime it w/ shellac
I'm going to let my lack of experience show...... 'nitro' = Nitrocellulose lacquer ? and a 'good shellac' would be something like the ColorTone Shellac Flakes sold by StewMac?