FRETS.NET

Here is an old banjo that I'm trying to lower the action on. This little guy has a dowel through the neck. with a small wood wedge to secure neck to rim. No coordinator rods here. I'm looking for the best way to adjust this neck and correct the string action to a lower, more playable position. Pictures are to follow. Thx, Eric

Views: 2250

Attachments:

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Here are the photos of the banjo
Attachments:
Trying to upload photo
Attachments:
Upload photo 2
Attachments:
Photo3
Attachments:
Photo4
Attachments:

There are a few ways to correct neck angle on these old banjos but first I must caution you that steel strings are inappropriate for these lightly built oldies. Generally speaking, the spun over metal on a light wooden rim would have been designed for and be strung up with gut strings. Only the heavy built pots, 3/4" thick turned wood or double spun (metal inside and out) with well built Maple or similar necks would be up to the job of handling steel strings. It is likely the cause of your current high action. It can also cause the pot to warp into the shape of a potato chip. You should lay it on a flat surface and check for this.

Aquilla Nylgut strings or Chris Sands are two very popular choices for players. You can go over to the Banjo Hangout and find out more than you care to know about what folks have to say about string choice.

You also need to ask yourself what kind of music you intend to work on. Claw Hammer players generally like the action a bit higher than someone playing in a Classic style that needs a low action. This will help you decide how far to change things. That said...

You can change the dowel angle by disassembling the neck stick from the neck, modify the dowel and glue it back up with a changed neck stick angle. You basically remove material from the top or bottom of the dowel and add some material to the opposite side. Here is a pic of a disassembled neck stick and dowel. The dowel was actually broken and it is apart to replace it but this is what you will usually find when you take one of these apart.

You have to steam the joint apart and removing the heel cap will let you drill holes for a steamer that will get covered up when the cap goes back on. These can sometimes have a locking dowel or screw hidden under the heel cap so if you go this route it's best to just pull it. This method is pretty fussy and I won't use it unless it's a really good banjo. Although, a lot of the early high quality banjos had neck adjustment strategies designed into them.

For banjos like yours, I fabricate a hardware for the end of the neck stick that is adjustable. I combine that with reworking the neck heel, if necessary, to closely fit the pot at the new angle. Pictures are self explanatory...

The metal is German Silver, a Nickle/ Copper alloy. I bought some from a jewelry supply house so the hardware would match German Silver or Nickle plated Brass pots. It also works very easily with basic tools. The adjuster will allow some action adjustment if/when you want to change your string heights ever. It is also reversible, if someone wanted to get rid of it later.

I have also changed the neck stick angle by modifying the neck stick. Again, the pictures explain better than my poor typing skills.

This was an unmarked neck stick on a low end Supertone banjolin. I wouldn't do this to a valuable banjo.

The bridge is the only other component that will allow for some change in action. Claw Hammer players tend to like taller bridges so there is plenty of room between the strings and pot for right hand work. Classic playing would call for a low bridge. Take this into account when doing your planning. Bridges come in many different heights and there is always some room on them to take a little off for smaller action adjustments.

Good luck, these old banjos all have their own personalities, some don't mind being coaxed, others fight you every step of the way!

Paul,
Thank you for your time and effort on this reply. Very detailed indeed. If the rest of the members of Fret.net are the same as you...well, I made a sound decision in joining.

This 1910 Comet came in with no skin, half the inlays falling out and 90 % of the hardware missing. Yes,
there has been a whole lot of relicing going on here, but I think I pulled it off. My customer is wanting this to be a fully functioning piece and we are on our way. The dowel rod end was mostly dry rotted and has been challenging at best. I drilled out the existing 1x1 dowel with a 1/2 inch bit and glue a 1/2 in oak dowel inside to the point I reached stable wood. I'm trying not to have to replace the dowel. Will see how it goes.

Thanks for your time. Eric
PS: How did you load your photos all together like that?

Paul,

I would also like to add my thanks for the excellent info you provided.

While not my preferred way to spend the day, I do see enough random banjos through the shop that I can appreciate your creative problem solving.

Paul,

I would also like to add my thanks for the excellent info you provided.

While not my preferred way to spend the day, I do see enough random banjos through the shop that I can appreciate your creative problem solving.

Hi Scott, your welcome. These old banjos may not look too complicated but they can be real fussy to get dialed in for a player.

Pictures are not difficult to post but do have file size limitations. I don't know what the size limit is but I reduce my images file size to around 50K, plus/ minus a few K. I don't think I have ever tried one larger than 60K, which still worked. Second button from the left on the tool bar up top is an image selector that lets you browse your computer for the image you want to post. The image drops where your cursor is.

Hey guys, Take a look at the photos. I have a broken end screw and I'm looking for a possible replacement.

Thanks for your time.
Attachments:
Another shot
Attachments:

RSS

© 2024   Created by Frank Ford.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service