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Hi guys, I was just gluing a tight crack in the front of the saddle slot in an old Martin. I used hot hide glue but I'm not real sure much of the glue actually wicked down into the crack. I did heat the bridge before and moved the front of the bridge a little to work the glue in. My question is...Would wicking thin CA around the area be all right after using the HHG ? I just hope the hide glue did the trick !

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Is the crack is on bridge or in the top? - If the crack radiates from saddle slot; my experience is that neither glue will hold that crack well for long. Might need a new bridge? I'm not sure about mixing the two glues, but you could thin out more hide glue.
thanks Tom, The crack is just the bridge not the top. I agree on the new bridge but the owner wants me to save this vintage bridge so I'm trying to do that. Under string tension,you can see a small gap in the rear/center of the slot with the saddle leaning .I can move that front piece of the bridge by prying lightly. Do you think adding a slightly deeper slot in the center would add some strength or weaken the bridge ?
yes your on to something thin ca and hide glue no comparison ca way better at wicking
Thanks Paul,yes, it makes sense being water thin that CA would wick better but I wonder how thin to take hide glue ? Watering it down must sap some of the strength, don't you think?
Yes it will (see Frank Ford's website).
I agree with Tom, just gluing the bridge can be a little too weak. If I really wanted to save the bridge, I would take it from the top, inlay it with a cross grain piece of the same wood from below, fill the crack with CA and re-glue it in place. Here are a pics I took from a old bridge I saved like this.
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More pics.
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That's a good idea Pierre. Thanks
Pic? :)
If the crack is at the end of the saddle slot I have had success wicking CA into the crack, then filling slot with whatever wood the bridge is made from, and re-routing slot. I will shim my saddle routing template a bit so that the saddle slot is no longer perpendicular to the top, but canted back a bit (top of saddle angled slightly towards bridge pins), and possibly move its location a bit if intonation will allow me, Stew Mac Intonator is good for checking that. I only do this with cracks that naturally shut when the string tension taken off of guitar. Replace the bridge in other cases.
Another good idea!
Yes,the crack is at the treble side of the slot Mike. Now that the glue has dried (both hide and CA) it is better with no movement. I have filled the slot and re-routed it.I also angled the template slightly. I'm going to use a slightly wider saddle this time..
A problem with this bridge is that someone had sanded it down
too thin so there is not a lot of depth on the treble side of the slot. One more attempt at using this bridge
then its time to make a new one! Thanks.

How do you load pics here?

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