Top Split Fix on an archtop?

[Steve Bee]

This is a 1988 Gibson L-4 CES that must have been in a hot, dry place...  Are these splits in the top candidates for fill/CA glue/epoxy or splints?  They are about .005" at the widest?

[Ned Knepp]

I like to use used plastic ziplock sandwich bags with a damp\wet sponge inside. I punch holes through one side ( and one side ONLY) of the bag then make sure that side stays up once it's inside the instrument. You may be able to get a couple of smaller sponges through the F holes with a bit of wrangling.  I usually like to seal up the sound holes but in this instance, it might be better to close the guitar up (on it's back) in the case. 

 

I also have an old syringe of the kind that is used for irrigating wounds (read BIG ) that I extended  with a piece of hobby shop brass tubing which is great for filling/refilling sponges in a situation like this. Basically finding a way to keep the sponges damp without removing them while keeping everything else relatively dry makes this a lot easier.  

 

[FRANK]

you could push steam manually via steamer just for a short...initial few seconds to get things rolling I recommend using the Violin family of humidifiers the sponge raped in a rubber tube with perforations and time .

I like this tube  humidifier it wont soak the inside and is just as able to creep that crack shut maby try 2 of them     

[Steve Bee]

Thanks Frank....I am in the process of getting 2 more of those types...

[Steve Bee]

Thanks Frank.  I got 2 of the humidifiers you recommended and they have been in the guitar for 2 weeks now.  As you know, we had lots of rain and the cracks in the top have closed up.  So what is the order now?  Do I cleat first, or glue the crack and then install cleats?  Then for the touch up, should I use CA glue or lacquer?  Should I trace the crack with thinner first before that?  I am going to experiment on a junker first.  Thanks

[Ned Knepp]

 A lot will depend on how tight the cracks are now that the guitar is re-humidified.  If they are tight and well aligned, that is they don't have any visible gap at all and are completely flush , I would CAREFULLY mask close to the crack on either side with tape and run CA into the crack. 

 

If there is any gap or misalignment at all, I would use splints to fill the gaps and caulds  and clamps to align things then glue it all up with hot hide glue. Cleat everything no matter what glue you choose.

 

You can also work hot hide glue into tight cracks too but CA penetrates right through the crack and holds well. It is also easy to scrape down to surface of the finish as long as you make sure the masking tape is close to the crack and pressed down well enough that no glue will wick up under it. Most of the time, I just have a small ridge to scrape down and buff out. I've done a few where I had as much time in masking the crack as I had in scraping it down.  Practicing is a good idea

 

Ned

[Steve Bee]

Thanks Ned, I am going to humidify for another 2 weeks as suggested by all... There is no gap in the cracks now but I can feel that pieces coming together are just a kiss out of alignment.  They seem to go together flush went I apply a little pressure.  Going to let it sit for another 2 weeks and will catch up then..  Thanks so much, Steve

[Steve Bee]

Thanks Ned!!!!!

[Chris Rochow]

Absolutely humidify!!!!!! I'd go at least 3 weeks of it. They MIGHT close up quite a bit. If they are pretty close thne...try to 'dry clamp' them shut (DON'T force). Use a good 'custom made' caul. If clamping closes them, apply some thin CA... while still clamped, place some cleats on the underside to secure it (I like Tightbond glue for that part).

[Steve Bee]

Thanks Chris, perhaps I will go 3 weeks instead of 2...  It couldn't hurt.  Thanks, Steve