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A few days ago I had a 12 string to work on. It was a black acoustic Fender made in Korea (can't remember the model). Made bone nut and saddle, changed a broken tuner and other minor electronics problems. I put on a set of 0.12. Next day the bridge had lifted (not completely, just a bit). I re-glued the bridge but added a rivet (with a washer inside) hidden by a faux mop dot. I tuned the guitar a whole step down. Should have I been more confident and tune it to regular pitch? How do you manage with 12 strings? My Yamaha has the same strings and never had problems at the bridge (just a normal belly on top). I must say I usually use it on open tunings.
Your experience?
Again, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everybody, especially to Frank who let us do what we do here.

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12's are pretty heavy for a 12 string, I use 10's on my Guild which is normally at concert pitch.
If this is a laminated top (very likely) it is unlikely to cope with 12's and standard
Silk & steel? Tuning down a step is almost necessary plus you get nicer tones and capoing the second fret is easy enough!
Not unisons I hope....Is it well made?I guess not.I did see a couple of good builders when I was stationed in Seoul.Mostly classical(60's).MerryCrimus
It's more than decent build, Tim, otherwise I wouldn't work on bone nut and saddle. Obviously the tuners are cheap and the overall tone is jangly, but for the price he spent to buy it (he bought it in the States for 100$), it worth the set up.
But Yamahas are much more better.
Lots of tension on those 12-strings. Almost every 12-string I work on (with the customers permission, of course) gets 2 small bolts in the bridge for security. I use 4-40 X 3/4" (or 5/8") pan head bolts with a miniature fender washer and a lock washer, then capped with a MOP dot or a wood plug to match the bridge (customers choice). I leave 'em sit, snugged-down, for a couple of days to let any wood compression occur, then re-tighten and secure with a drop of thin viscosity superglue.

No one has ever noticed an audible change in the instrument, although physics would dictate (I'd guess) that there'd be a slight change in coupling between the bridge and the top, but the peace of mind (read: lack of bridge lifting under all that tension) seems to be worth it.

Oh yeah... Merry Christmas! We did our festivities last night, the missus is sleeping, it's out to breakfast later and I promised "no shop time today"! A great holiday to all.
I use twelves on my Alvarez and did on my yamaha at standard tuning. the yamaha needs a neck reset now though. Not really sure if heavy strings had anything to do with it. It's from the early seventies. Modern twelve strings are built to handle standard tuning and heavier strings but a lot of the older have a bracing pattern that was meant for 6 strings and not twelve...Mike.
Hey Mike,

Ya know, you could always use aluminum bolts/nuts if not magnesium if the additional mass ever posed a problem. While I would agree that there should be some issues the great pull of the strings probably swamps the additional mass. Hell, even nylon/teflon would be sufficient and of truly insignificant mass.

Rob
I was told that my warranty would be voided if I put heavier than .10s on it.
On which guitar brand,Rick? I've never find such a limitation.
Would that be a Rickenbacker?
Repairs aside,every 12y I've had I've strung with 10's AND tuned down to D! Easier to play,less structural probs,plus with the same chords I can sing stuff I never could in concert.You need 14 frets and with a capo on 2 you're in concert and still got 12 frets!
Best 12y? D12-18.Then my Epiphone Bard I got for Christmas.Seagulls are good too,as are MIJ Fenders from the 70's-that have been looked after-same applies Dorado (MIJ Gretsch).
HNY

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