I found a '66 harmony 910 but the bridge (bolted on) was broken. I've replaced it but it lifts a little under tension - so I'm wondering if i should glue on the bridge or bolt it on differently? Some 910's have obvious bolts, some look glued (but are they bolted?) I don't think the screw/bolts i have are oem - or if there was a plate below the bridge to help. Any suggestions Much appreciated!
I don't want to rip the soundboard up.
I love fixing up "junked" guitars and this one seems worth it...
Thanks in advance,
Hot hide glue on clean wood is all you need :-)
Thanks- Yes, I know I can glue the bridge- but i'd like to keep it authentic if possible. so trying to get many
suggestions i can consider. I have another guitar - a Stella - that now has a trap bridge but i'd like to bolt one on if it will work correctly. Here's the 910. nothing special - but it's special in that it's nothing special.
I have seen many guitars with bolts or screws on the bridge, most of them was very cheap when they were sold. But even some better guitars have them. Gibson used them a lot for a period of time (before they figured it out!). I think they are obsolete and a pretty useless addition to the fastening of the bridge. They MAY help the bridge stay in place for a while longer (and deforming the top while doing it). Using hot hide glue you don't need no screws or bolts.
I would use glue to secure the bridge and maybe leave the bolts on as a funky decoration.
I have the same model from the 60's too sitting waiting for me to work on it. Same issue with the bridge, split down the middle between the screw holes. Mine was also glued down roughly 75% coverage with that brown gravy looking glue Harmony went to. Back side of the bridge was completely off, front side still glued down. The front half of the bridge popped off easily.
Someone on a site once told me that glue was very similar to the glue used to produce plywood back in the 50's-60's. Becomes dry and brittle now, but will not soften with heat and moisture.
Mines sitting while I decide whether to repair it back to original, bridge repair and making a few new ladder top braces that are missing. Or remake into a parlour guitar, completely re brace the top and make it a steel string.
"Same issue with the bridge, split down the middle between the screw holes. "
Just because Harmony built the guitar cheap and dirty doesn't mean you are obliged to perpetuate their sins.
I'm still wondering about the bolts - I'd like to the bridge to sit flat -the back edge lifts a little -is that how other bolted bridges sit under tension? They sold these this way, and the Harmony, even as a Starter guitar - worked for a lot of little Segovias, right? It plays well, but i know under tension the bolts will pull into the top.I'm happy to glue it on.Just wondering if I need to, if there's something I'm missing about bolting a bridge on.
Before you glue the bridge, make sure it has a flat surface towards the top. If it's really curved you can put some water on it and press it flat against a metal plate with clamps and an iron on the metal plate to heat it up. Get the wood nice and hot and leave it to cool down. The bridge will be flat again.
Bolts have a tendency to deform both the top and the bridge.
Cool, it is flat, quite good shape for 50 year old guitar that was unloved until I got it. just seemed hard to discern if the bolts were tight. I think I'll glue it later today.
I do like an Harmony guitar, a good one is an absolute joy, though they are hard to find. My favourite is the Stella branded H929, I've had 4 and the one I've kept is my go to guitar.
The 910 was for nylon strings and sold as a low end classical guitar. The bridge is not always bolted on it does come glued. IMO I would not use fixings, I would glue it with hot hide, possible use the screw holes for guide dowels. If I were to use screws I believe I would countersink the hole enough to hid the head with a piece of MOP or matched timber. Being Harmony I doubt that there would have been a bridge plate.