A late 70's Guild has come into our shop for it's second neck reset in 18 mos. The bridge continues to rotate (pull forward)-despite adding minor braces to support the top, when we did the last reset. Has anyone had any success at curing the bridge problem? I would much prefer to solve this problem than remove the neck, again. Thanks

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My singe experience with the Bridge Doctor system was positive. The job was a conversion of a Breedlove acoustic to a steel-string. The mods were replacing the tuner barrels from the large-diameter plastic to the regulation-sized steel; converting the bridge from an acoustic tie-bridge to a pin-bridge; a bit of minor rebrace work and, finally.... installing a JLD Bridge Doctor for some increased stability to the belly, and It did seem to add rigidity.

A recheck of the guitar (after 6 months) showed everything holding up nicely, but the JLD did require a re-tightening... which tells me that there was some movement of the whole box with the increased string tension. Hard to say if the JLD was *required* but it certainly helped the conversion.
First off, Howdy to everybody. Just found this site this morning.Thanks again to Frank. I also have an older Guild in shop. As much as the top has raised behind the bridge, it has sunkin even worse (really bad) in front of it. I know these two can go together but have never seen it to this extent. This being my first Guild repair, and with what the Stuart said, I'm wondering if they were way underbraced. As Mike mentioned I had thought they were built heavy. Maybe not all of them. I'm not sure this guitar is worth what this repair might cost. I'm not sure the bridge DR will be enough. I'm pretty sure he's not gonna want to pay for back removal and rebracing. I have sand bagged tops before, but usually without some rebracing they do retain a memory and return to their earlier deformed shape.
I have used the Bridge DR twice with positive results. I have made the plug unnoticable(sp). I keep all my rosewood/ebony/etc... scraps in a big box and can usually find a piece that matches most any fill I need to make. I can never throw away any pretty wood, no matter how small. David
Dear David,
When we reset the neck on this Guild, I made two short, maple, braces and installed them ahead of the X to support the top-at the soundhole. We have used this repair many times, with good success-to stop tops from collapsing. I'm going to make a slightly oversized bridge plate, clamp the top flat, and glue it in place, to see if I can ease the buckle enough to lower the action on this one. I can't see another neck re-set, unless we can stop the top buckling-the problem would just re-occur. Stuart
I haven't used the JLD system but my brother installed one on a very light weight Bourgeios OM that he purchased from a man who ran heavy gage strings on it. The setup was a mess and the bridge was rolling forward, depressing the top in front and pulling it up behind.

He dealt with the holes in the bridge with pearl dots to match those in the neck. It took a while for the bridge to roll back into place (he adjusted it a little at a time and kept a humidifier in the guitar ) but the instrument was still very sound two years later when he sold it and the tone was the same if not better. I haven't tried one but I won't hesitate when I need it.

+1 on the JLD for the late 70's Guild. Not sure what model you have there Stuart, by my D25 sounds great with the JLD installed. I use the one with the brass pins, because I didn't want to mod the bridge. I only use the brass pin on the D string though; regular pins on the rest. If the saddle is already low, then the brass pins can reduce the string break angle even further. I had to spend some time "tuning" the bridge dr at first. I've had it on for the past two years and I've only adjusted it once or twice.
I want to also chime in in support of the Bridge Doc - the recommendation I got from this website (thanks!). I'm an extremely "monogamous" guitar player and have played the same Martin D-25K since 1980 (had a Guild of the same model number - totally different - that was well braced before that was stolen) and have literally put this guitar through hell performing. I had the neck professionally set by a repairman I was working with (I come from an music electronics tech background) but for reason the bridge bellied about 5 years later. After extensive inspection I couldn't find anything loose in the bracing and the backing plate was reinforced during the reset. Due to illness I don't have the energy to reset the neck again myself nor can I afford to pay for it. But the BD produced "miraculous" results possibly even improving the pre belly tone (I distrust recordings and my ears are aging).

So I see no reason to install one of these - you may feel that they look "chintzy" but if you've ever seen an autopsy you probably don't look that pretty inside either which is where the device is going. And you could easily take the time to make one yourself out of gold and Brazilian rosewood if looks are that important. Too be ever so slightly purposely offensive (hey, at least lemme take my glasses off!): Its a piss-poor repairman that can't hide the hole in the bridge. I chose not to use the MOT dot and instead make a rosewood plug that is quite invisible.

My $0.02



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