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Hi i'm new so beware of naievity and poor spelling. I have an old worco parlor i would like to add a bridge to to replace the floater for intonation purposes and to possibly lower the action. the belly is fractionally sunk. I thought of a spanish type that wouldn't need drilling. what's involved please?

steve

perhaps the following photos help

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ok I have the bridge doctor and classical bridge. Can the bridge doctor sit on the base of the guitar and not on a strut? because the strut would be in the wrong place and I just have room to squeeze it in, sitting on the bottom?
The bridge doctor hangs under the bridge. I don't know what you mean when you refer to a "strut" but there should only be the bridge plate attached to the inside of the top plate, directly under the bridge. If by "strut" you mean one of the cross braces, you want to avoid that. The BD must be placed under the bridge and bridge plate with the dowel/ rod extending toward the tail block at the bottom of the guitar ( the bottom, when the guitar is held upright. ) The device will need to be attached by a screw that goes through the back edge of the bridge. Make sure you understand the instructions for installation. The device must be positioned correctly to work properly. The idea is to install it so that the rod to the tail block causes the rest of the device to press upward on the front edge of the bridge so that it counteracts the twisting force of string tension.

I don't know how this will work with a classical bridge. Every installation I've seen used a pin bridge with holes through the top and a margin of bridge behind/below the pins which could be used to mount the BD. On a classical bridge, you will need to figure out how to place the hole for the screw correctly while avoiding interference with the strings.

Ned
Thanks Ned. Yes I meant cross braces and thanks for the clear instruction. I might get at it this weekend and will keep you posted.
Note: Check the body depth on your guitar. Make sure the Bridge Doctor will fit before you install a new bridge system. However, that sounds like overkill to me. That money could get you started on another cheap guitar :) I would try a set of silk and steel strings first. Might ease a little pain from the high action?
Thanks Tom. Sooner or later the bits and pieces will come in handy. or go on ebay.
Its hard to tell from the lack of perspective in the picture, but could you not simply make the bridge thinner to lower the action? With the tailpiece the string force on the bridge is only downward, so strength shouldnt be an issue. This would depend on the break angle of the strings over the saddle toward the tailpiece. If its already shallow thinning the bridge wont help your tone any. If you like the guitar as it is id stay with the current bridge and tailpiece and do the neck reset. I cant see how switching to a glued bridge wouldnt change the tone, or be worth the work of reinforcing the top.

Didn't have time to read the other replies this am as I'm off to the shop in the city but why not simply measure the errors in intonation, do the math to calculate proper intonation locations, and make a new "floater..." ;) that addresses both intonation requirements and action wishes?  Current bracing need not be changed, no need to add a bridge plate as in a glued bridge, easy-peezy and more true to the original intent of the maker and the current structure and what it's intended to support?

Just a "for what it's worth"; The last post on this thread, until yesterday, was over 3 years ago.  Not that your comments are not germane to the subject but I think the O. P. has done what he was going to do by now.

Thanks Ned, looks like I was a little late to the dance by about 3 years or so....;)  Thought it was an active post this am when it was at the top of the page.

My bad. Forgot I was in a search (bridge doctor) and replied compulsively.

spanish bridge works perfectly. see worco on utube

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