First Mando

[RoBanJo]

OK Folks, I am getting my kit together to build my first F5 style mandolin (SIminoff's "Build a bluegrass..."). Thing is I want to go easy on the pocketbook with the wood for the first build. Suggestions as to the species to use? If this has been covered before please point me in the way...

[William F.Eden]

Maple for the body and neck with a spruce top good luck Bill.................

[Eric Steven Johansen]

Early Gibsons used birch and walnut for back and sides and cherry also works. All three are readily available and reasonably priced and can be had with some figure as well. Match the neck to the back and sides. Spruce is really the only choice for the top, but perhaps a lower quality for the first build. Best of luck.

[Ned Knepp]

 If you haven't already made one, you might consider making an "A" style mandolin as your first carved instrument. The scroll  on an "F" can be frustrating for a first timer. An "A" is not only easier to carve, it's also much easier to bind and finish.

[RoBanJo]

I see your point. The instruction in the book is relevant either way. The plans are the only significant difference. SIminoff recommends a simpler "V joint", pegged to give strength, for the first attempt versus the traditional dove tails. Decisions decisions. Part of the fun, no?

[Ned Knepp]

RoBanJo,

My brother built his first couple of mandolins using Smirnoff's book. He used the doweled neck joint on the first but though that a dove tail would not have been much harder and it would be much easier for someone else to reset in the future. I've never tried the doweled joint because of his advice.

BTW, Both of us blew the first tops we tried to carve, probably, because we tried to hurry it too much. Just don't get into a hurry. In case it sounds like I'm doing a downer on you, I should say that I LOVE the feeling of a sharp blade cutting wood and I find the process of carving a top very addictive. 

[RoBanJo]

What do you use to cut that dovetail? Dovetail (or some similar) saw, bandsaw, other?

I suspect my experience with the top will mirror yours which is part of the reason for original question.

I did just buy a Stanley Sweetheart low angle block plane and so can understand your delight with the blade. Just getting that first thin whisper off the out of the box blade was sweet.

I'm looking forward to sitting out in the shop and working my way through the process.

Regards

[William F.Eden]

Just don't get to  slaphappy with that blade or you will have your top and back far to thin.  I carve my tops in a  cross shape thicker down the centre and across were the bridge will sit. There have been a lot of Mandolins  caved with far to thin a top. And I have never realy used a blade of any kind to do the carving .I use a sander it is a lot faster. good luck Bill........... 

[Paul Verticchio]

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67716&cat=1,41182,...

Your Stanley will work well for flat surfaces & joining (it's construction specs are very similar to the Veritas LA Block Plane) but you may need a couple of the planes listed above. Superb quality & a lifetime investment(-: They're very worthy of consideration.

Best of luck & have fun (-:
Paul

[RoBanJo]

I've been looking for a good excuse to send some money their way. Those curved soles seem to be a good place to go.

[Ned Knepp]

I don't do a lot of neck joint cutting so I use a dove tail saw on blocks that allow me to cut through top and bottom of the block, like a mandolin.  If you have a band saw, in good working order AND you have the skills/ control to keep the angle correct as you cut, they work quickly and well.

I"m not really all that precise at cutting these. I simply haven't done enough dovetail joints from scratch to be good at it, but I can, with care get close enough that it's not any harder than resetting some of the instruments I've rebuilt. This is, for me, a case of measure till your sick of it then cut... very carefully. For me the hardest part is getting the necks "tail" to fit the slot well. I've found that cutting just over size makes more work but also makes a better fit. 

If you are going to do very many, invest in a router bit and templates. The time saved and the consistency will pay for them