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Just curious if any of you guys have any experience using fullerplast? I'm doing a couple of old fender restorations and just aquired a gallon of the stuff with the catalyst. Just curious if any of you have any tips on spraying the stuff, or any tips on what i shouldn't do.

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Here's a good page to start with: http://www.caraguitars.com/fullerplast.asp

You may also want to post that question at the Guitar ReRanch forum.

However, I bet Rusty will chime in with all the info you need.  Man, what a resource he is...thank goodness.

Best of luck Jeff.

I think Paul is saying I talk way too much, but this is an interesting subject (as a lot of them are) - Last known producer of Fullerplast, or equivalent,  was Gemini Coating (El Reno 800 262 5710) so you may be able to get them to send you a tech sheet and a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for this stuff.  Please read the MSDS - these lacquers are dangerous in may ways.

The Caraguitars expostulations and "revelations" are a little over the top for me, it's not like this wasn't common knowledge and as PRS and a whole bunch of others use the same sort of finish schedule (in the name of production volume and velocity and QA) it's scarcely news.  

I use a nitro sealer/undercoat on my gloss stuff and it take forever to settle down and get a skinny finish coat going on.  A skinny sealer coat of Fullerplast is probably not much different sonically on a Strat than a full nitro finish and as for the voodoo "breathing" stuff I guess nitro will form less of a vapor barrier than poly or equivalents but it's still a valid barrier to moisture.   Nitro was developed as an Automobile finish in the 50's so it has some weather/moisture resistance inherit to it's formulation.  

As for letting out the trapped moisture in a guitar body...ahhh,  most builders use wood which is kiln dried and I'm not so sure that this vapor barrier discussion that goes on is particularly useful.   Acoustics have lots of bare wood on the inside so the "problem" of moisture content in the wood is moot - it's simply not a problem as the wood will find its moisture content balance in a heartbeat.  The finish is simply put on the outside to protect the wood from dirt and beer and other useful stuff.  But, that said, the type of finish on an acoustic will affect the tone so don't yell at me.

Electrics will swell up and bend and twist according to the seasons just like an acoustic, except its not as noticeable - but,  try putting a straight edge across the top of you prized one piece Telecaster from season to season and you'll see what I mean - the two piece and three piece bodies don't move as much for obvious reasons. 

First rule of spraying two packs - have enough ready to go if there is the risk of running out of lacquer - be ready to coat continuously as once a two pack has hardened any subsequent two-pack will not key very well and the finish will be unsound.  

Pre-finish sand the body dead flat as the less of this stuff needed the better the sound of the guitar (to my ears anyway) and the less sanding to get everything ready for the finish coats.

Key (scuff) the Fullerplast with 220 - don't fine sand as it will make the finish coats struggle to get a grip - and meticulously clean the dust off before finishing (use compressed air if available) and/or thinners of the same type you are going to use in the finish coats.  

Measure your catalyst and lacquer quantities very accurately and avoid the "just a little bit more" syndrome that I suffer from (especially when mixing epoxy) and spray within the temperature specs for the finish.

Get a number of finish coats on before sanding otherwize you may sand through the Fullerplast to the wood and be faced with a different finish gradient for that spot.

That's about as much as I can say and still be safe. Rusty.

Hiya Rusty.

What I 'implied' is that you seem to be (and I consider you to be) the forums authority on factory spec finishing schedules.  If anyone talks too much; well brother, that's me (: Typing (thank goodness) does limit my verbosity.

The response you gave was an education for me as well as just a "good read".

Thanks again our friend,

P

Rusty,

Much thanks for your elaboration on the fullerplast. You always have just the info we're looking for!

Jeff

What about bodys of pine?  I have a freind that worked for Fender in its begining and he says he hauled truck loads of pine to the factory. I

 

What you say guys?

 

Ron

Well Fender used Pine in some of the very early pre broadcaster/telecaster guitars that they then painted black, But they were also using pine for all the cabinetwork on their amplifiers so I'd guess that's where the pine was going.

Thanks Jeff

I never wanted to not belive him so now I know where all the pine went.

 

Ron

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