I've just bought a used Gibson SG (Heritage) bass 2007, and would really appreciate some tips regarding setup.

The neck seems to have a little too much bow for my liking and I was wondering if anyone knew of any Gibson "standard" neck relief measurements. The bass is currently strung with D'A nickel roundwound 45-100's.

Also, the Gibson "3 point" bridge seems to be a bit of a moot point,  but as I want to keep the original fittings, I would like to know the correct way of adjusting this particular bridge.

I'm confident with setting the intonation (the bridge saddles can be adjusted individually) but any help with the above points would be greatly appreciated

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I don't know of any standard specs for the relief but, as with most basses, the less relief (closer to straight) the better.

If memory serves, those 3-point bridges are tricky... in that it's easy to leave one of the screws sitting loose up in the air. Use the rear two screws to set the overall bridge height, and then the lone front screw to level the bridge parallel to the top, or maybe a taste higher to give a better string break. 

Hipshot makes a nice direct-replacement bridge for the Gibson that solves some of the original's problems.. about $110

Hi Mike, thanks for your response.

Yep, I've seen the Hipshot replacement bridge, but as I said, I don't really want to replace the original fittings unless as an absolute last resort.

Hi Brian, I spent my formative years playing a bass like that (EB-3, 1970-1975). It was pretty difficult to get a firm tone out of the E string, mostly because of the scale length. Also, the compactness of the bridge might cause wrappinga to cross over the bridge piece. I would suggest using as heavy a string as you can find (.105 for the E) which will firm everything up, then trim away the wrappings if they present themselves as described.




If the neck has too much bow even after tightening the truss rod, then it's time to switch strings for lighter ones. I'd suggest to try the Pyramid Gold Short scale strings. These were made specifically for shorter-scale basses, such as the Guild Starfire & Hofner "Beatle" bass, so their tension should be easier for the SG neck.

Well, I've set up the bass and I'm pretty pleased with the results.

I don't think the neck relief was a fault with the neck, just the pervious owners personal preference; a couple of tweaks of the truss rod and it's now exactly right for me!

I researched the 3 point bridge for the correct setting procedure, and I have got the action nigh on perfect.

I have also managed to get the intonation correct, but the only issue is that the wraps of the 3rd & 4th (A & E) strings sit on the bridge saddles; the intonation is only a couple of cents out in both cases, and the sound seems fine.

Some threads suggest that only silk wraps effect the tone, and I am quite happy with the sound but, would you guitar technicians settle for that, or is it essential to get the steel wrap off the bridge saddle.

I really appreciate your help...........great forum!!

All you have to do is to take a fine razor blade and cut the silk wrapping until the bare string contacts the saddle. That's what Jack Casady did when he used the Guild Starfire.

Hi, Could I ask a little more help please; I'd like to cut a new Graphite nut.

What would be the "recommended" gap between the top of the first fret and the bottom of each string (E - G) on a 4 string bass? 


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