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Just got a Les Paul Custom in today with a rather typical looking headstock break.  On closer examination, it looks like the break has been there a while, and the guitar hasn't been used for quite some time.  There is also some residue in the crack that may be dried glue.  I'm hoping it shows up in the picture.  There are other parts of the crack that look clean, so my guess is that the crack was poorly repaired and then came undone or the guitar was dropped or whatever a second time, causing the repair to fail and the crack became worse.


If I didn't have this resource to double check my thought process, I would probably use epoxy on this repair.  I have to admit, though, that the idea of using some kind of gap filling superglue has crossed my mind as well. 


If it was a fresh crack, I would use titebond, as I do not have a good setup for using hideglue, nor have I ever used it.

Thanks for any advice that comes down the line.

Brian Stewart

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If it's gonna break at the headstock: that's how you want it to break(:

Unless the 'residue' is further up in the crack, I can't see what you describe. The 'age' of the crack should be of no significance.

I would NOT use CA to repair this.  I'd use only HH or TB.  I'd wash-out the crack with naptha using a wide tipped artist's brush so you can really get in there, let it dry for 48 hours and then do a standard "spread, glue & clamp" repair." That's advice based upon this single picture. Other factors may introduce or require varied solutions

Touch-up should be minimal using drop fill techniques & CA glue. If it's a Gibson, it's finish is nitro lac. If it's an Epi; it's a poly finish.

We'd love to see some post repair pic's.

Best of luck,

Paul(-:

I think I see a whitish residue in there. If so, I wouldn't trust either hide glue or Titebond. At this point a good epoxy [West Systems] may be your best choice. If the budget allows you should inlay a backstrap-style reinforcement and refinish the area. Black is pretty forgiving at least.

Go with Greg's advice. (-:

Thank you both for the responses.   I have found other evidence that suggests this is a failed repair.  The guitar is all black, but the back of the neck has faded or changed to a dark green/black color.  However, there is a distinct line about 1 inch below the crack where it turns jet black from there up.  Just below this, there is a witness line where whatever was used as a clearcoat meets the lacquer.  There is also some orange peeling on the headstock that doesn't really showup anywhere else on the guitar, and the serial number on the back of the headstock is quite filled with finish and hard to read.

Unfortunately, I won't be able to do a backstrap type repair...for a variety of reasons.  I'm still considering super glue, as this break seems similar to one Mr. Ford has profiled on his website, here:

Heat Failure Backstrap Overlay

I like the idea of the heat resistance of the super glue.  I would not be in the least bit surprised (based on the little I know of the guitar's history) that heat is what caused this particular joint to fail.


I'm kind of out in the ether here.  I appreciate the mentor-ship I find here.  Thanks.

Brian

Hi Brian, 

I would use epoxy for this type of repair. It will eliminate any chance of contamination not letting the glue bond to the wood. I would was the very edge of the break so any squeeze out won't stick to the finish and you'll only have to due minimal touch up. Super glue will work but you'll be creating a ton of work for yourself. It will eat through the lacquer quickly and deeply. I have used this method many times and never had any come back to me. 

Gary,


Do you have a preferred brand and/or set time of epoxy?  I've seen West Systems mentioned quite a bit here, but I also saw mention of an LMI product...which would be less hassle to get.

Thanks again!

Brian

You can find West System at a marine supply house.  Good stuff.

Hello. Just thought I better follow up with this thread now that the job is finished.

I ended doing a little research on epoxies, and decided to go with System 3 T-88 epoxy, which I purchased from Woodcraft.  The reasons for going with this brand were:  Very good reviews of the product; price; container size(not too large!); ease of availability.

The gluing and clamping was easy.  Clean-up was a bitch.  All par for the course when using epoxy.  The product worked well and set up nice and hard.  I have great confidence in the repair.

I learn every time I do a repair, and the thing that struck home with me on this one is that I really need to invest in some good finish touch up tools and materials.  I'm not set up well for this and it is keeping some of my repairs from looking their absolute best.  I got most of the epoxy cleaned up before it dried, but there was still some light sanding and buffing that needed to be done.  Would have been nice to be able to put a coat of black and a clear coat over the finished repair.  There was a couple spots where a burn-in stick would have been useful, too.

Bottom line, the customer is happy and the repair is sound.

Anyway, thanks for all the advice.

Brian

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