I've never had an issue with the pearl. Obviously the neck alignment is important because it will look wonky if it's off at all. The binding will be an issue; you can see that it has shrunk and it will want to pull away. I have just repaired a 42 neck binding like that with putty made from binding and acetone, and the black line drawn in. Trying to fit slivers of laminated plastic wasn't looking good.
Thanks Greg , I am not worried about that gap , I just hope I can give it back looking the same . I hadn't considered the alignment with the pearl so thanks for the warning . Ive done a lot of Martins but never a 42 .
If the binding loosens it will shrink further and the gaps will be more obvious. That's all.
makes you want to decipher all those scrawled signatures in there, call them up and yell at them individually
Dont Martin start with a neck and a block that fit , then build the guitar around them ? Maybe Im not the 1st resetter ?
Interesting premise on a prior reset, as those shims you've found in there look decidedly "unfactory". Also curious about the thin shim on the underside of the f'board, near the end of the trussrod. What year is the guitar?
Any evidence? Other steam holes would be obvious I think. Mike, I think that's tape around the FB to keep the binding in place.
I dunno, my own OCD insists I usually go back and plug the holes to match and erase all of that evidence, if possible :) Still, those huge shims, though...
I didn't think about that , no there were no steam holes , nor drill scars in the cavity . Greg is correct , I taped the binding to keep it in place , I don't know the age of it but it has the curve half way down the dovetail cavity so not too old . When I add shims they usually end up getting sanded down to almost nothing , cant imagine how a 42 could be so wrong .