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I am trying to find the plans to the binding machine that LMII used to carry.  Does anyone know where I can find them?

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Hi Mike

No, the arm is fixed in the horizontal plane, it just moves in and out on the drawer glides.

But the base has a lazy susan bearing between the two base plates, so the base can rotate, and with a combination of the two directions, it should be possible to do the binding channels in one go. According to the the plans, the distance between the base tower and the body cradle base should be 12", I would guess to ensure that you don't run out of movement during the routing round the body.

I may have to modify the distance a bit, as the longest drawer glides I could find are a tad shorter than specified in the plans

When it's finished, I'll doing a few test runs with a few flea market guitars before I try it on anything valuable, I'll let you know how it went! 

It's certainly been a lot of fun building it, the plans only cost $24! + shipping to over here. For sure it's gonna be better than the SM attachment gizmo with my 'Dremel! 

that tool Gram found is a Trip articulates up and down and in and out I still like mine less components less room for mistakes /////

Hello John,

    I see you have received some good response to your question and some good advice.  I personally own the plans

you are talking about that I purchased from LMI when you could buy them.  I don't know if you can buy them now, but I know that for a while they did not sell them  Anyway I also have a 3-D model of the it, that I have created from the blue prints in SolidWorks.  I have not done it yet, but SolidWorks generates 2-D mechanical drawings from the 3-D model very easily.If you still need the "Plans" I would be happy to do this for you and share them with you.  The easiest way is for me to send you the SolidWorks files and for you to download the free SolidWorks eDrawings Viewer that allows you to view SolidWorks models and drawings but not modify them.  It will let you, pan, zoom, rotate and investigate the model/drawings in as much detail as anyone would need to build this device.  Again as everyone has stated, the whole rig is nothing more than a carriage, riding up and down on high quality bearing drawer slides in a tower/base structure that mounts on a bench and uses an adjustable (leveling) guitar body shaped cradle.  A trim router is mounted to a ledge on the cradles front, using the plate that is available from LMI or a 1/4" alum. plate that one make for themselves.  I just use the Porter Cable 7310 and the LMI trim router mounting Plate HDPE block/shoe. 

The only other thing I have to say about this "machine" and the comments and responses here, is:

I used own a machine shop and build racing engines and race car parts.  The rigidity of any machine that is going to cut something be it metal or wood relates directly to the accuracy of the operation.  The "Ribbeke" style binding jig is much more a rigid device than the Fleischer style machine which is the one that people refer to with the articulation arm that moves around the guitar body to cut the channel, mounting the router way out on the arm.  Even if the arm was made of metal say precision castings with bearings in the movements and such, it would still not be as rigid as the tower style jig.

The weight of the arm itself will cause sag and misalignment relative to the platen that the guitar/craddle system is being skidded across.  I am sure the "arm" machine does a good job, just simply because we are cutting wood and the amount of accuracy needed is to the 1/64 at best not to the 0.001 or worse 0.0001 as in metal machining.  However above all the

"Ribbeke" Style mahine is much simpler to build and much, much less expensive, with the part for the latter being not only costly but sometime hard to find.  I have used the "Ribbeke" machine I made 8 years ago, flawlessly with no sign of any wear on the drawer slides (if you use good ones) and I have performed absolutely no maintenance or repair on it.

Oh yes, also save yourself another head ache and buy either the LMI cutter/bearing system or the StewMac, I have the StewMac, but I am sure LMI's set is just as good. 

Take care,

Bob

These are great jigs and they work very well IMHO.  This operation becomes effortless AND most of all many of the issues with other approaches are not present in this design.

As our friend Grahame mentioned plans are available and have been available for a long time now from: Luthier Cool Tools

I've tried likely all of the other approaches that are commonly known and these jibs are my favorite.  There is no risk of tipping the jig inward as there is with some approaches resulting in a divot in one's top....

Here's mine:

While looking through my files for pics of my "William's Jig" and I call mine a William's jig because mine was built and signed personally to me by Don Williams I also found this pic....

I took this pic some years ago of my pal and building partner, bench dog.... Sony to illustrate that these things are so very easy to use that even a Yorkie can do it.  Sadly Sony (I named him Sony when I was working for GE....) passed away a couple of weeks ago and I miss him terribly.  But... I digress...

Anyway of all of the approaches that I have tried this approach works great and results in very uniform bindings even in the problem areas such as the upper bout of the back.

Yes it looks like you have a nice jig.   Any way, if I can help at all let me know.  i have other drawing for jigs and such.  I also have some of Luthier Cool Tools drawings, I thing the one for the fretboard radius jig and the side bending machine (Fox Style).  If you want copies just let me know, I will be happy to share.

Bob

Hi Guys

This is way cool! Great job on the binding jig. I've been trying to finalize on which one to make for ages, but I think it's high time now.

I know this thread is really old, but would anyone here have any solid works files for the binding machine? Or any other form of CNC based mock up that could be used? 

Thanks a ton!

Cheers

Karan

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