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I'm posting pics from my recent triumph , repairing a broken truss rod on a mid 60's Gibson Hummingbird.....The neck was pretty straight without tension , so I new I could do this.....I've saved vintage Fender necks going through the 3rd fret dot , and a custom color 60's Fender bass with matching headstock by going through the block marker....If the neck was warped , I would have planed and re-fretted them , but they were all close.....I did the first one over a decade ago , and it's still out there , doing fine...

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WOW...! Absolutely amazing. Very clean repair work.How did you know exactly where the break was ?

I pulled out the broken rod , and used it to guide me...( First pic )....

Nice work.... clean as a whistle!  Good job. 

overwhelming......I'm exhausted ....I would have destroyed the guitar using my low tech ideas!

 

My most sincere compliments!!!!!

It looks so simple... when YOU do it. Astounding!

So it looks like you spliced the rod , then epoxy ? What was the procedure ? Still adjustable ?

1....Used original busted rod to determine where the break was...Dremeled through the fret slots to neck itself....2...Used chisel to lift a section to gain access to truss rod slot...3..Exposed work area....( Later was able to steam that little dent back to shape )....4..Dremeled out work area....5....Original lug falls out ( thankfully )...That's where it broke...6...New truss rod is drilled for piano wire pin....7..Tapping new rod in...I reversed a truss rod nut to protect the threads on the new rod as I tapped it...Notice the " this side up "... mark on new rod ..8....Pin is driven in....There is a half inch hole drilled into the neck to accommodate the unseen part if the pin..9...For some reason , I made a brass collar to go around the top of the pin....Epoxy it all in...10...A bit of wood putty , and then replaced my divots....11....Sanding it all flush , and after that , a wet rag and a soldering pencil steamed that little dent right out....12.....Time for a good stiff drink.....And yes , the rod functions ,...again , if the neck was warped badly , I would have dealt with that when the rod was out...The less the repaired rod has to work , the better  I figure..If it had been an unbound board with a well worn finish , I may have done the traditional fingerboard removal....This baby was in great condition finish wise , and the risk of damage to the original finish removing it is what made me go this way....

I'd be concerned that the hole for the pin has reduced the crossectional area of the rod by around 50% at the anchorage

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