Should I hammer or press these frets?

[Ian Pender]

I'm about to refret an older Alvarez, and this particular model doesn't have a soundhole, so I can't use the fret buck to brace the end of the fingerboard. There is an access panel on the back of the instrument, however. Does anyone have any recommendations for bracing the end of the fingerboard so I can hammer the frets in? Or am I going to have to bite the bullet and buy/build a fret press?

[Paul Verticchio]

Hi Ian.

When faced with this situation, I used to widen the fret slots with a motor tool and the appropriate size bit and press & glue the frets on the tongue of the FB. It's known as "The Teeter Glue In Method". Lots of info on the web on how to do that.

However (and we just had a lengthy discussion about it), this would be a job where the Stew-Mac Jaws 2 and some down home engineering would be ideal. That is what I use for this situation nowadays. It's not only a superior fret pressing system, it's also helpful when gluing down sprung fret ends.

If you plan on continuing to perform re-frets & general fret work, you'll eventually need it. Now is as good of a time as ever :)

Best of luck with this project, Ian. :)

[Mark A. Kane]

Ian,

Another approach I've used with success is to leave the fret slots alone (clean them out by whatever method suits you), then use a dremel and an appropriate bit to take down 1/2 to 2/3 of the barbs on each fret. I also knock off the tops of the remaining barbs but usually leave some portion of the barb protruding, maybe .015" or so. I then use medium viscosity super glue in each slot, about 4-5 small drops spaced out along the slot. I hammer in the frets very lightly. There is enough working time with the glue. I then use the hammer as an "iron" and press/iron the frets along their length for a few seconds until the glue grabs. You shouldn't have to spend more than 10 minutes for all the frets above the body joint. This method preserves the slots, is quick-setting, and doesn't require the purchase of any new tooling. It also works like a charm!

[Paul Verticchio]

Thanks for describing your MUCH easier way to do that, Mark :)

[Andrew]

Seconded. That seems like the wisest approach to me.

Ian, you can buy arbor presses pretty cheaply. Mine cost about. $40, and another $20 to have the thing drilled and tapped for stewmacs fret press caul, so i doubt itd be worth the time to make one. The drill press idea another poster mentions is also an idea - an auxillary table to support the whole neck would help. That said, pressing frets is overrated in my opinion. You cant feel whats happening, so its easier to end up with uneven frets that will require more levelling. I enjoy hammering frets and doubt if my press will see a lot of action in the future. One less big ugly hunk of metal to worry about maneuvering a guitar around in my very crowded shop space.

[Robert May]

I knock of fret tang barbs with my own version of stew-macs fret barber. Feeler gauges between two short files in a vise. 

Might also be a job for a jaws 3, or maybe a custom longer version of a jaws 3 fret press.

With a looser fitting fret, you're better off bending the frets to the exact radius of the board to avoid pop-up either on the ends or middle.

I'm curious what the back access might allow you to do. Maybe allow your hand with an auto body dolly to press up under the fret board extension ?

[Ian Pender]

I was briefly considering something like that, but the access panel is small, and it's located all the way down towards the lower bout. I'll post a picture of it when I get to the shop today.

[Ian Pender]

Here's the location of the access hatch. No way I'm fitting an arm in there.

[Ned Knepp]

I gotta wonder; Why did they bother?

[Paul Verticchio]

Ned,

It's to access the electronics(?).  Perhaps a user installed item when they didn't know how to access the electronics through the preamp cutout? It doesn't look 'right'. But then again, the worst that can be said is it looks 'unrefined'. All the factory access panels I've seen on wood bodied A/E's have been flush with the back.

If Ian would post a pic of the back with the panel removed, we should be able to see it was factory work or something else. I'm just curious.

Ian, I forgot to mention that I've played this model several times at festivals, as one of the organizers had one. If it had an access panel, it must have been flush as I didn't notice it.

Once you get them set-up & tuned-in, they make very nice looking stage instruments. You'll have fun playing it.

[Ian Pender]

I'll post another pic when I get to the shop tomorrow. If I remember correctly, the preamp itself is pretty small, so I don't think much work can be done through the cutout there. As, far as I know, the access panel is stock though, or at least the customer seems to think it is. He claims to have bought it new in 1983, but I think the serial number dated this guitar around 1979, so who knows?

[Paul Verticchio]

Thanks so much, Ian.

If the photo is too much trouble, that's cool as I'm just more curious than anything. I don't want you to go through any trouble to do it. I appreciate your offer though. Whatever it is: there it is :)

btw: The preamp opening affords access to whatever is needed. Much of the work is done with shop made helper grabbers & low-tech probes. If on board pups & electronics get much more complex, I'm sure that someday the government will make us buy fishing licenses. Although a task that must be learned, I've never met a tech that 'enjoys' A/E guitar electronic work....until AFTER the work is done.

But that's OT as the subject is frets. Sorry for veering so far off track.

[Ian Pender]

No need to apologize. Here's the pic of the back hatch with the cover removed. There's metallic blue lacquer overspray visible, so it looks like this access panel came stock.
I tried including a 6 inch ruler in the photo for reference, but I couldn't get rid of the glare.