Stubborn Neck/Truss Rod

[Andrew Jonathon]

Hey everyone,

First timer here...

I'm doing a fret dress on an amer. deluxe tele and can't seem to get the neck straight for the life of me. Strings off, I tightened the truss rod ('bi-felx' headstock adjustment) and checked with a straight edge accordingly. I had to tighten the TR to the maximum without over stressing, which will normally put the neck into a 'back bow' but was in fact still substantially 'up bowed'. I then clamped the neck using a 24" beam (on small blocks at either end of the fretboard) forcing it into a back bow, but the TR nut would still only adjust so far (to what I'm assuming is the end of the threads). After roving the clamp, it was only marginally more straight. Adjusting any further and I'm at the mercy of what I cannot see... 

1) Could this be due to the fact that the neck is flat sawn and therefore more susceptible to warping? If so could the neck be classified as defective?

2) Is there any way to remove the nut for lubrication? (adjustments are not smooth at all)

3) Why, Fender?? 

Any advise is much appreciated!

[Mark Fogleman]

1. Not necessarily. Tension rods make this a moot point for the most part. Teles can have a flatsawn neck. 

2. Yes definitely remove the nut, inspect and oil the rod threads but the nut is probably wallowing out the hole and attempting to extend the rod threads. Add some truss rod washers to give you some support in the hole, replace the nut if the threads are damaged and you will be able to properly tension the rod. 

[Andrew Jonathon]

Thanks Mark. Very helpful.

I've been researching various methods on removing the walnut plug, as i've not come across this job before but I think I've found a reliable one.

I also had an idea to replace the plug with a bullet style nut as a cost affective way to avoid having to make a new one and then touch up the finish. I know this goes against the original design of the bi-flex, but it's a single action rod anyway and the bullet nut would fit nicely... I'd likely need a few more washers to get the bullet in the right position, however. 

Any additional thoughts? Ever come across that before? 

[Len Biglin]

Fender sell replacement walnut plugs , score around the walnut/maple junction , heat with a soldering iron tucked in the hole , then back-out the nut , it will push the plug out from memory , I wonder if the rod might be in upside down ?

[Andrew Jonathon]

I don't think they can be installed upside down, due to their design. I found the blueprints on the TDPRI forum.  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Neck%20Building/St...

Thanks for the info. Your method for extracting the plug is the same one I was going to do. Thanks for the reinforcement. 

[Matt Dreher]

i have had good luck with adding more washers as well. Sometimes the cavity does not allow much space with the truss rod being so far in the hole or the wood was damaged and i have had to use the stew mac truss rod saver to get in a bit deeper to add the washers. Sometimes after doing that i will still clamp the neck with a beam for the initial adjustment to make things go a bit easier. Sometimes gently heating the neck helps in this process as well. It all seems to be a judgment call as you try different things and see how they progress. 

[Andrew Jonathon]

Thanks for the input, Matt.

Funny you mentioned heating... I just called colleague of mine with quite a bit more more experience  (as I normally do if I'm getting into uncharted territories) and he said he would normally do a heat press before any kind of 'surgery'. Keep in mind this TR is not broken, nor are the threads stripped. He said sometimes the neck just needs a little extra help. I was kind of excited to give this job a go, but I may not get the chance if the heat press works (and maybe better off for the guitar in question). I'll post back here after all is said and done with the final verdict. Thanks again, all.

[Brian Evans]

How interesting to see that blueprint.  I never knew they anchored the truss rod with a screw at the 7th fret position dot.  Presuming it's anchored at the heel as well, I wonder why?