To Remove Or Not Remove?
On my EL'-Dagas beater project Iam looking down the road . Right now I have the old axe all taped and protected reading for fret sanding .The board itself was sprayed at one time by what looks like three coats of lacquer of some type and really cheapens to look even more of this cheap banger. Once the frets are re-crowned would you recommend sand this material off or using a stripper or leaving as its serving a purpose? Sure looks ugly for lack of better word and I am wondering possibly deadening string sound note responce and volume am I correct here anyone? With straight edge beween the D-G strings the ebony board just has a slight dip away from the strings in the middle which seems to be the norm from what clips I have watched on trust rod adjustments. Dont worry won't touch the allen key nut any more.Made a tiny trust rod adjustment while still in full pitch tightening the trust rod a few 1/4 turns to bring the Low-E strings within a few millimeters away from the twelth fret!
Thanks in advance -nanccinut
Thanks in advance -nanccinut
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by FRANK on
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leave the lacquer this helps to protect the finger board if it is Maple or a light colored wood so on your beater you have a maple finger board correct send a photo PLEASE for a better educated Guess CHEERS PHB
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Permalink Reply by Rob on
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Hi Paul - Think it is ebony but what do I know. All I can say is that its darker brown than my 82 Westerly Guild. The sanding and filing process went excellent thanks to Bob. Next step is the polish with 0000 steel wool and a drop of Old English lemon oil I have read. WilI stop at my local on way home and ask ED'S Music Workshop here in Peterborough owned by Don Scuce. He has been in business for over thirty years.I was surprised how well the sanding bar worked with the hold down handle allowing you to consentrate on the job at hand.Was also surprised that I had to take a touch more off than I thought due to pitting on top frets to get them level with straightedge.Once this steel wool process and polish step is done will try to get son to take a close digital.-Rob
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From what I was able to gather in talking to my local they believe it was made from Indian Rosewood. So whats the best way to protect this type of fretboard but more important without hurting both volume and more important quality of sound transfer.as I have decided this amature three coats of lacqure must go as its just plain ugly? Have already picked up a set of light Addario .024--.056 strings and remaking the wooden nut that had shimmies underit with a new perfect fit maple one which is almost complete and the slotting will be custom made to fit those string guages.Thanks in advance gang! .....Rob
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Permalink Reply by stevenrosburg on
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Rob,
You don't need to "protect" dark fingerboards like rosewood and ebony. You can use a non-silicone conditioner if you like, but that's only necessary to keep them looking pretty. Maple fingerboards collect grime and look disgusting if they are left unfinished, that's why they are lacquered. The less finish the better as far as tone goes.
-Steve
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Permalink Reply by Christian Johnson on
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I wouldn't be surprised if the fingerboard is cheap wood painted to look like tropical wood. It may have been laquered to protect the paint from wearing off.
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After I got the lacquer off and got down to the real wood it appears to be real due to a redish color transfer and this same color can be seen where the nut is still removed at the top.Does any kind of rosewood produce this on 600 grit sandpaper?
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Rob,
I've sanded my rosewood fretboard with 600-grit paper before and while it was mostly brown, I don't think you have to worry too much about it being fake. A rosewood fretboard is nothing special, they are found on cheap guitars all the time. Just get it smooth, then oil it lightly if you like and call it good.
-Steve
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