Vintage Martin restoration

[Mike Higgins]

Hi folks,

Found a 1927 Martin in pretty bad shape. Needs at the least bar frets and possibly neck reset. Cracks on the top and back as well. DSC_4222.JPGDSC_4223.JPG The bridge has nuts and bolts holding it on...DSC_4215.JPG so it would need to be reset. 

The heel looks good as it is attached with no separation, but the fingerboard and frets look like a botched do it yourself fret repair DSC_4226.JPG. As far as I can tell it is all original down to the bridge pins.

I would like to keep it as original as possible.

Any idea on the cost?

Thanks,

Mike

[onewent]

Looks like an 0-18K.  If that's the extent of the damage, it should turn out to be a nice guitar.  How's the bridge plate?

The bridge looks totally salvageable, just remove the screws, and fill with ebony and glue.   That makes an almost invisible repair.  Can't tell if it needs re-gluing, but the bolts are evidence that it was loose at one time. 

With some effort and patience, the fingerboard could be repaired, too.  The side crack looks pretty tight, not as sacrey as some.

Good luck with it.  Tom

[Paul Verticchio]

Hello Mike.

Fantastic score.

Without itemizing, I'd ballpark your budget at between $2K-$3K. This takes into account repairs by a Martin specialist with extensive experience.  You own the evidence of an unqualified 'hack'.

Unfortunately, a good chunk of the repair cost will involve the fretwork & fingerboard repair. Also, if the hack that did the fretwork 'messed up' the fret slots, a replacement FB or repair by refilling the fret slots & re-cutting them along with the refret may be prescribed.

Hopefully, our friend George Roberts will check in. He has a tremendous amount of experience with pre-war Martin instruments.

Again, you have a real find on your hands.

I hope it comes out GREAT for you :)

[Greg Mirken]

Are you planning on keeping the Hawaiian setup (straight saddle)? If so, resetting the neck may not be necessary.

[Mike Higgins]

Hi Greg,

Thanks for the reply. Having never played Hawaiian style, I hadn't even thought about it. I want to get it playable and do just that. I guess if that means a neck reset would be in the picture, I would want to get it done. The guitar has a lot of charachter and has seen better times. It would be nice to make it look "like new" but depending on the cost, may pan out to be a project spanning over time.

Mike

[Greg Mirken]

For 'standard' playing you may want to have a replacement bridge made with angled saddle for better intonation. I have a 1926 0-28K with straight saddle which I have kept stock because I also play slide. It's a sweet guitar. It has raised bar frets even though most of the guitars made for slide (with non-compensated saddles) apparently had flush frets. Do you think your frets were modified? It's hard to tell from the photo what the intent of the crude fingerboard work was.

[Mike Higgins]

Here are some pictures.

Yes, frets 11-20 are almost flush. Who ever hacked it raised frets 1-10.

[Robbie Collins]

May I suggest that instead of aiming for this guitar to "look like new" that you try to make it look like a 1927 guitar that has had caring, knowledgeable  owners?

[Donald A. Fortune]

I would go along with what Robbie Collins said and make it look like the year it was made-- after all astetics has its own kind of charm--just my 2 cents worth-- peace, Donald

[Mike Higgins]

I totally agree with both you and Robbie Collins! I took it over to Nevada City this morning where It is now in the hands of Greg Mirken who will be working on it. We had the same conversation while in his shop. I would not want it to look like new, for age does show its character and charm!

Thanks for the advice!

Mike